This destination guide covers my visit to the small fishing village of Cherronisos on Sifnos, which is set around a rocky inlet ideal for swimming and features a stunningly located monastery.
A visit to Cherronisos
After settling into my accommodation in the port town of Kamares, I set off on a road trip across the Cycladic island of Sifnos, visiting the mountaintop Church of Agios Symeon and enjoying its stunning views.
I planned to tour the coast of Sifnos in a clockwise direction, so after visiting Agios Symeon, I continued my drive towards Cherronisos, the northernmost settlement on the island.
After driving my car down the mountain from Agios Symeon, I entered the unremarkable village of Troulaki.
From here, the main road turns east towards Artemonas and Apollonia, while a branch heads northwest, eventually leading to Cherronisos at the northern tip of the island of Sifnos.
I turned my car onto this branch road, but instead of following it straight to Cherronisos, I first took a side road just outside Troulaki that led to Vroulidia Beach (Paralia Vroulidia).
Vroulidia is a pebble beach situated at the end of a sheltered bay between steep slopes, and it boasts a well-reviewed tavern.
The access road to Vroulidia Beach descends steeply down the cliffs and is narrow and very rough, though I later heard it is being paved, so those who visit Sifnos now will likely find it in much better conditions than I did.
As I wasn’t able to drive down the road during my visit with my simple 2WD car, I simply enjoyed the stunning views from the first hundred metres, overlooking the terraced hills of Sifnos and the distant sea.
As you continue driving north from Troulaki, you’ll eventually reach a large car park on a narrow peninsula, with the village of Cherronisos downhill on your left, a rocky coastline to your right, and the Monastery of Agios Georgios straight ahead, perched on a barren headland that forms the northern tip of Sifnos.
The paved road ends at this car park, though a dirt track continues from here to the Monastery of Agios Georgios.
From this car park, both the fishing village of Cherronisos and the Monastery of Agios Georgios are within easy walking distance, and although it’s possible to drive a bit closer to each, it’s best to leave your car here and explore the area on foot.
Immediately north of Cherronisos lies the small Monastery and Church of Agios Georgios, which is sometimes spelled as Agios Giorgios.
I decided to walk to the monastery first and visit Cherronisos afterwards, as I could rehydrate with an iced coffee at one of the village taverns after my walk.
From the Cherronisos car park, it’s a 15-minute uphill walk to the Monastery of Agios Georgios.
Be sure to close the gate behind you, as it was installed to prevent the goats from wandering beyond their grazing grounds on the headland.
The beauty and charm of the Monastery of Agios Georgios stems largely from its wild setting on the windswept, craggy peninsula at the northern tip of Sifnos.
As I expected, the doors of the whitewashed monastery and church were both firmly shut, though the amazing views from here over the Aegean Sea and the island of Sifnos were definitely worth the short hike.
From the monastery grounds, you even have a perfect view across the sea towards the neighbouring Cycladic island of Serifos.
Once I returned to the car park, I set off in the other direction and followed a footpath down into the small settlement of Cherronisos.
Cherronisos, sometimes spelled Cheronissos, is the northernmost village on the island of Sifnos and is set around a rocky inlet with stunning azure-blue waters.
Historically, Cherronisos is a small fishing port, and you’ll still see a few kaïkis (traditional Greek fishing boats) anchored in the sheltered waters of the inlet.
If Sifnos is already a relatively off-the-beaten-track destination among the Cyclades, then Cherronisos is the equivalent on the island itself, as its remote location and small size make it an exceptionally tranquil place.
I don’t think more than a dozen to two dozen people live in Cherronisos permanently, given that Artemonas — the much larger village of which both Cherronisos and Troulaki are administratively part — has a population of only 879.
Indeed, it seems that most of the houses in Cherronisos are used as second homes or holiday rentals, and this village could certainly be a nice location to base yourself on Sifnos if you want to get away from it all and seek a quiet environment.
Cherronisos has a small beach at the end of the inlet, and although it’s not the best on the island, I still think it’s one of the nicest places for a swim on Sifnos.
In fact, an even better idea than swimming from the beach is to simply jump off the quays and swimming platforms around the inlet, many of which have steps or are low enough to make it easy to get out of the water again.
The crystal-clear, calm waters of the inlet at Cherronisos on Sifnos make it one of the island’s most inviting spots for a swim — the kind of place where you’ll want to float in the sea for ages, simply taking in the stunning surroundings.
Although Cherronisos is located at the northern tip of Sifnos, the inlet faces a larger bay to the south-west, so even when the strong northern meltemi winds blow in summer, the sea here remains extremely calm, making this sheltered spot ideal as well for young children to swim.
There are a couple of taverns in Cherronisos overlooking the sea, offering lovely spots for lunch or a drink in one of the most picturesque settings on Sifnos.
Since it was still morning when I visited Cherronisos and too early for lunch, I simply enjoyed a frappé — Greek iced coffee — while taking in the stunning views around me.
After some time relaxing at the tavern with a coffee, it was time for me to continue my tour around the island of Sifnos.
My next destination — Apollonia, the largest town and commercial hub of Sifnos — would no doubt be livelier than the incredibly tranquil fishing village of Cherronisos, where I don’t think I saw a single other person during my visit apart from the tavern owner!
The small fishing port of Cherronisos is one of the most tranquil spots on the island of Sifnos, where you can really get away from it all by diving into the crystal-clear waters of the sheltered inlet or sitting at one of the taverns in the village.
Be sure to walk from Cherronisos up the promontory to the nearby Monastery of Agios Georgios, where you’ll be rewarded with fantastic views over the rocky peninsula that forms the northernmost tip of Sifnos — and even a clear view of the neighbouring island of Serifos.
Koen works as a freelance journalist covering south-eastern Europe and is the founding father and editor-in-chief of Paliparan. As a contributor to some major Fleet Street newspapers and some lesser known publications in the Balkans, he travels thousands of miles each year for work as well as on his personal holidays. Whether it is horse riding in Kyrgyzstan’s Tian Shan mountains, exploring the backstreets of Bogotá, or sipping a glass of moschofilero in a Greek beachside taverna, Koen loves to immerse himself into the local culture, explore new places and eat and drink himself around the world. You can follow Koen on his travels on Twitter, Facebook, or Instagram.
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