Cherronisos: The Hidden Seaside Retreat on Sifnos

This destination guide covers my visit to the small fishing village of Cherronisos on Sifnos, which is set around a rocky inlet ideal for swimming and features a stunningly located monastery.

A visit to Cherronisos

After settling into my accommodation in the port town of Kamares, I set off on a road trip across the Cycladic island of Sifnos, visiting the mountaintop Church of Agios Symeon and enjoying its stunning views.

I planned to tour the coast of Sifnos in a clockwise direction, so after visiting Agios Symeon, I continued my drive towards Cherronisos, the northernmost settlement on the island.

balcony beach view kamares
View over the beach of Kamares from my balcony. ©Paliparan
kamares beach sifnos
Kamares Beach. ©Paliparan
Sifnos Agios Symeon church Kamares sunset
Sunset over the port of Kamares as seen from the Church of Agios Symeon. ©Paliparan

The road to Troulaki and Cherronisos

After driving my car down the mountain from Agios Symeon, I entered the unremarkable village of Troulaki.

From here, the main road turns east towards Artemonas and Apollonia, while a branch heads northwest, eventually leading to Cherronisos at the northern tip of the island of Sifnos.

I turned my car onto this branch road, but instead of following it straight to Cherronisos, I first took a side road just outside Troulaki that led to Vroulidia Beach (Paralia Vroulidia).

mountain road sifnos
View from the mountain road across Sifnos. ©Paliparan
troulaki road
Driving down the mountain from Agios Symeon Church towards Troulaki. ©Paliparan
road view
Beautiful views from the road. ©Paliparan
cat road
Spot the ginger cat sitting in the fields alongside the road! ©Paliparan
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The village of Troulaki. ©Paliparan
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Road from Troulaki to Cherronisos. ©Paliparan

Vroulidia Beach

Vroulidia is a pebble beach situated at the end of a sheltered bay between steep slopes, and it boasts a well-reviewed tavern.

The access road to Vroulidia Beach descends steeply down the cliffs and is narrow and very rough, though I later heard it is being paved, so those who visit Sifnos now will likely find it in much better conditions than I did.

As I wasn’t able to drive down the road during my visit with my simple 2WD car, I simply enjoyed the stunning views from the first hundred metres, overlooking the terraced hills of Sifnos and the distant sea.

vroulidia beach road
The dirt road to Vroulidia Beach. ©Paliparan
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Small church alongside the road ©Paliparan
dirt gravel road
Although the gravel road was in terrible condition when I visited, I’ve heard it has since been fully paved. ©Paliparan
landscape sifnos
Beautiful view over the terraced hills of Sifnos. ©Paliparan
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The road on the west coast of Sifnos leading down to Vroulidia Beach. ©Paliparan
vroulidia beach
Vroulidia Beach. ©Paliparan

End of the road

As you continue driving north from Troulaki, you’ll eventually reach a large car park on a narrow peninsula, with the village of Cherronisos downhill on your left, a rocky coastline to your right, and the Monastery of Agios Georgios straight ahead, perched on a barren headland that forms the northern tip of Sifnos.

The paved road ends at this car park, though a dirt track continues from here to the Monastery of Agios Georgios.

From this car park, both the fishing village of Cherronisos and the Monastery of Agios Georgios are within easy walking distance, and although it’s possible to drive a bit closer to each, it’s best to leave your car here and explore the area on foot.

cheronissos agios giorgios monastery sifnos
Cherronisos and the Monastery of Agios Georgios are located on the northernmost tip of Sifnos. The island you see in the distance across the sea is Serifos. ©Paliparan
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Approaching the (free) car park just above the village of Cherronisos, with a gravel road continuing from here towards the Monastery of Agios Georgios . ©Paliparan
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The rocky coastline on the northern side of the Cherronisos peninsula on Sifnos. ©Paliparan
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View over the fishing village of Cherronisos, which is located at the end of an inlet. ©Paliparan

Monastery of Agios Georgios

Immediately north of Cherronisos lies the small Monastery and Church of Agios Georgios, which is sometimes spelled as Agios Giorgios.

I decided to walk to the monastery first and visit Cherronisos afterwards, as I could rehydrate with an iced coffee at one of the village taverns after my walk.

From the Cherronisos car park, it’s a 15-minute uphill walk to the Monastery of Agios Georgios.

Be sure to close the gate behind you, as it was installed to prevent the goats from wandering beyond their grazing grounds on the headland.

The beauty and charm of the Monastery of Agios Georgios stems largely from its wild setting on the windswept, craggy peninsula at the northern tip of Sifnos.

As I expected, the doors of the whitewashed monastery and church were both firmly shut, though the amazing views from here over the Aegean Sea and the island of Sifnos were definitely worth the short hike.

From the monastery grounds, you even have a perfect view across the sea towards the neighbouring Cycladic island of Serifos.

monastery road agios georgios
Dirt road from the car park to the Monastery of Agios Georgios. ©Paliparan
coastline view sifnos
From the road, you can enjoy sweeping views over the coastline. ©Paliparan
Monastery of Agios Giorgios
Monastery of Agios Georgios. ©Paliparan
Monastery of Agios Georgios Cherronisos Sifnos fishing village
View over the Monastery of Agios Georgios. ©Paliparan
serifos island
View towards the island of Serifos. ©Paliparan
Monastery of Agios Giorgios
The desolate surroundings of the Monastery of Agios Georgios. ©Paliparan
cherronisos monastery agios georgios road sifnos
Walking on the gravel road back to Cherronisos. ©Paliparan

Into Cherronisos

Once I returned to the car park, I set off in the other direction and followed a footpath down into the small settlement of Cherronisos.

Cherronisos, sometimes spelled Cheronissos, is the northernmost village on the island of Sifnos and is set around a rocky inlet with stunning azure-blue waters.

Historically, Cherronisos is a small fishing port, and you’ll still see a few kaïkis (traditional Greek fishing boats) anchored in the sheltered waters of the inlet.

If Sifnos is already a relatively off-the-beaten-track destination among the Cyclades, then Cherronisos is the equivalent on the island itself, as its remote location and small size make it an exceptionally tranquil place.

I don’t think more than a dozen to two dozen people live in Cherronisos permanently, given that Artemonas — the much larger village of which both Cherronisos and Troulaki are administratively part — has a population of only 879.

Indeed, it seems that most of the houses in Cherronisos are used as second homes or holiday rentals, and this village could certainly be a nice location to base yourself on Sifnos if you want to get away from it all and seek a quiet environment.

cherronisos fishing village sifnos
The small fishing village of Cherronisos, located at the end of a rocky inlet on the northern coast of Sifnos. ©Paliparan
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Looking across the inlet towards the open sea. ©Paliparan
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The only road in Cherronisos. ©Paliparan
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Cherronisos is set around a rocky, sheltered inlet. ©Paliparan
cherronisos inlet sea water bay sifnos village
View over Cherronisos and the crystal clear water of the sea. ©Paliparan

Swimming in Cherronisos

Cherronisos has a small beach at the end of the inlet, and although it’s not the best on the island, I still think it’s one of the nicest places for a swim on Sifnos.

In fact, an even better idea than swimming from the beach is to simply jump off the quays and swimming platforms around the inlet, many of which have steps or are low enough to make it easy to get out of the water again.

The crystal-clear, calm waters of the inlet at Cherronisos on Sifnos make it one of the island’s most inviting spots for a swim — the kind of place where you’ll want to float in the sea for ages, simply taking in the stunning surroundings.

Although Cherronisos is located at the northern tip of Sifnos, the inlet faces a larger bay to the south-west, so even when the strong northern meltemi winds blow in summer, the sea here remains extremely calm, making this sheltered spot ideal as well for young children to swim.

cheronissos beach
Cherronisos Beach. ©Paliparan
sea water swimming cherronisos sifnos village
The inviting waters off the rocky shores of Cherronisos. ©Paliparan

Seaside taverns

There are a couple of taverns in Cherronisos overlooking the sea, offering lovely spots for lunch or a drink in one of the most picturesque settings on Sifnos.

Since it was still morning when I visited Cherronisos and too early for lunch, I simply enjoyed a frappé — Greek iced coffee — while taking in the stunning views around me.

cheronissos taverns
There are two inviting taverns overlooking the waters of the narrow bay in Cheronissos. ©Paliparan
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Seaside taverna in Cherronisos. ©Paliparan
sea inlet tavern
From the taverns, you’ll have some great views across the inlet and the village. ©Paliparan
frappé cherronisos sea greece taverns village
Enjoying a frappé with a view. ©Paliparan

Heading on

After some time relaxing at the tavern with a coffee, it was time for me to continue my tour around the island of Sifnos.

My next destination — Apollonia, the largest town and commercial hub of Sifnos — would no doubt be livelier than the incredibly tranquil fishing village of Cherronisos, where I don’t think I saw a single other person during my visit apart from the tavern owner!

road sifnos cherronisos
A final look towards Cherronisos as I drive back along the road. ©Paliparan

Conclusion

The small fishing port of Cherronisos is one of the most tranquil spots on the island of Sifnos, where you can really get away from it all by diving into the crystal-clear waters of the sheltered inlet or sitting at one of the taverns in the village.

Be sure to walk from Cherronisos up the promontory to the nearby Monastery of Agios Georgios, where you’ll be rewarded with fantastic views over the rocky peninsula that forms the northernmost tip of Sifnos — and even a clear view of the neighbouring island of Serifos.

Trip report index

This article is part of the ‘Wonderful Greek Island Escape: My Trip to the Cyclades‘ trip report, which consists of the following chapters:

1. A Misty Morning Walk Around the Old Port of Hamburg
2. Review: EuroCity Train ‘Berliner’ Hamburg to Berlin and Prague
3. Back to Germany: From Prague to Frankfurt by Train
4. From Frankfurt to Athens: A Flight Into the Greek Sun
5. Greek Ferry Guide: How to Reach the Western Cyclades
6. Review: Speedrunner Ferry Piraeus to Serifos and Sifnos
7. Sifnos Travel Guide: Explore the Best Sights and Beaches
8. Kamares: The Rugged and Relaxed Port Town of Sifnos
9. The Church of Agios Symeon: The Best Sunset Spot on Sifnos
10. Cherronisos: The Hidden Seaside Retreat on Sifnos (current chapter)

** rest of the chapters to follow soon **

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Koen

Koen works as a freelance journalist covering south-eastern Europe and is the founding father and editor-in-chief of Paliparan. As a contributor to some major Fleet Street newspapers and some lesser known publications in the Balkans, he travels thousands of miles each year for work as well as on his personal holidays. Whether it is horse riding in Kyrgyzstan’s Tian Shan mountains, exploring the backstreets of Bogotá, or sipping a glass of moschofilero in a Greek beachside taverna, Koen loves to immerse himself into the local culture, explore new places and eat and drink himself around the world. You can follow Koen on his travels on Twitter, Facebook, or Instagram.

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