A Dewsbury Lock-In: A Night in Britain’s Most Run-Down Town

This destination guide recalls my unexpectedly enjoyable visit to Dewsbury, one of Britain’s most run-down towns.

A trip to Yorkshire

After a great journey in first class on an Avanti West Coast train from London to Manchester, I had nearly completed my long journey from Cornwall to Yorkshire.

I had two more trains to catch before I would arrive at my overnight destination, the market town of Dewsbury.

Dewsbury is certainly not the most obvious destination for anyone to visit in the UK.

In fact, Dewsbury has frequently been listed among the worst British towns, with headlines referring to it as a “run-down UK town” that has been “ruined by drunks and people smoking cannabis” and is a “breeding ground for ISIS jihadis“.

The only reason I went to Dewsbury was that it offered the most affordable accommodation I could find on that day in July, with a room costing just a fifth of the price that the cheapest hotels in nearby Leeds or Huddersfield were charging.

As I was travelling around the UK using an Interrail Pass and could hop on any train I wanted, I had complete flexibility to choose where to break my journey and stay overnight before continuing to the Yorkshire Dales the next day, so Dewsbury it was.

grazing plate charcuterie board avanti west coast first class food
Charcuterie board and a glass of red wine on my Avanti West Coast train from London to Manchester. ©Paliparan
avanti west coast pendolino train manchester piccadilly first class review
The Avanti West Coast Pendolino train I took from London to Manchester. ©Paliparan

Manchester to Dewsbury by train

The first of the two trains I had to take to get to Dewsbury was a TransPennine Express service from Manchester Piccadilly to Huddersfield.

Fortunately, this early evening service was not too busy, and I had an entire bay of four seats to myself.

The views from the train on this beautiful summer evening over the Yorkshire towns nestled in forested valleys, with their terraced housing, old factories, and textile mills, were certainly pleasant.

Even though some of these towns are now relatively quiet backwaters, they were once part of Britain’s manufacturing powerhouse during the Industrial Revolution.

My train eventually arrived at Huddersfield station on the dot at 21:11.

manchester piccadilly station departures board
Departures board at Manchester Piccadilly station. ©Paliparan
manchester hull train transpennine express dewsbury
To get from Manchester Piccadilly to Dewsbury, I first had to take the Manchester to Hull train as far as Huddersfield. ©Paliparan
manchester hull transpennine express train
The Manchester to Hull TransPennine Express train. ©Paliparan
transpennine express train manchester piccadilly railway station
Transpennine Express train at Manchester Piccadilly station. ©Paliparan
manchester piccadilly railway station train shed
Boarding the Manchester to Hull TransPennine Express train. ©Paliparan
seats transpennine express train
Seats on the TransPennine Express train. ©Paliparan
stalybridge station
Stalybridge with its excellent station pub. ©Paliparan
stalybridge railway station
Stop at Stalybridge station in the Greater Manchester area. ©Paliparan
uppermill scenery forest
Scenery near Uppermill. ©Paliparan
marsden slaithwaite railway view
View somewhere between Marsden and Slaithwaite. ©Paliparan
Slaithwaite
Slaithwaite as seen from the train. ©Paliparan
Colne Valley view
Colne Valley view. ©Paliparan
huddersfield golcar factory train view
Approaching Huddersfield. ©Paliparan
huddersfield railway station
Huddersfield railway station. ©Paliparan
huddersfield station
Waiting for the train to Dewsbury at the station of Huddersfield. ©Paliparan

Arrival in Dewsbury

At Huddersfield, I had a six-minute connection onto another TransPennine Express train bound for Newcastle, which I took just one stop for the nine-minute ride to Dewsbury.

This near-empty train was also bang on time, and I finally arrived in Dewsbury just before half past ten in the evening.

Despite its reputation as a run-down town, Dewsbury’s railway station is actually quite attractive.

Besides that, you’ll find the excellent West Riding Refreshment Rooms at Dewsbury railway station, which is one of the best station pubs in the UK.

huddersfield station transpennine express train
My train to Dewsbury arrives at the station of Huddersfield. ©Paliparan
huddersfield station train
The TransPennine Express train from Liverpool to Newcastle, which I would take as far as Dewsbury. ©Paliparan
first class seats transpennine express train
First class seats on the TransPennine Express train. ©Paliparan
second class seats transpennine express train
Second class seats on the TransPennine Express train. ©Paliparan
huddersfield stadium view
View over Huddersfield and the city’s stadium. ©Paliparan
dewsbury view railway line
Approaching Dewsbury. ©Paliparan
dewsbury railway station transpennine express train
My TransPennine Express train has arrived at Dewsbury. ©Paliparan
dewsbury station
Dewsbury station. ©Paliparan
dewsbury railway station
The railway station of Dewsbury is quite pretty. ©Paliparan
dewsbury station entrance
Entrance to Dewsbury station. ©Paliparan
dewsbury west riding refreshment rooms pub
West Riding Refreshment Rooms, the station pub of Dewsbury. ©Paliparan
west riding refreshment rooms dewsbury real ale pub
Make sure you stop for a pint at West Riding Refreshment Rooms whenever you pass through the railway station of Dewsbury, as this real ale pub is absolutely lovely! ©Paliparan

A walk into town

After a quick pint at the West Riding Refreshment Rooms, I walked into Dewsbury town centre proper.

It felt eerily deserted on this warm summer evening, with the only people I encountered being groups of yobbos hanging around.

Combined with the many neglected or abandoned buildings, boarded-up stores, and other signs of decay, I could certainly see why people describe Dewsbury as run-down.

Moreover, it certainly gave the town centre of Dewsbury a somewhat unsafe feel, in line with the broken windows theory.

The shops in Dewsbury town centre were also rather strange, as it seemed like the majority were mobile phone stores, vape shops, or similar businesses, which also contributed to the run-down feel.

I could not imagine setting foot in any of them as a foreign tourist, let alone as a local doing everyday shopping.

After a while, I arrived at my accommodation for the night, the Wellington Tavern, a pub that also operates a bed and breakfast on the upper floors of the building.

dewsbury town centre neglect run-down
Street in the town centre of Dewsbury. ©Paliparan

Dewsbury accommodation

I arrived at the Wellington Tavern with minimal expectations, as I paid a room rate of just £38.80, which even included breakfast.

From my own experience travelling around the UK, such cheap accommodation can be rather hit or miss.

Fortunately for me, the Wellington Tavern turned out to be extremely good value for money.

A friendly barmaid showed me to my room, which was perfectly clean and well appointed, with a TV, kettle, and tea and coffee supplies.

There was also an en-suite bathroom with a good shower.

As I went straight to the bar after dropping my rucksack, I only managed to take pictures of the room the following morning, so do not think that the unmade bed and towels in the sink reflect how it looked when I first entered the room.

Overall, I can’t recommend the Wellington Tavern in Dewsbury enough – not just for its great accommodation, but also for the fun evening I had in the pub.

wellington tavern rooms
Rooms above the Wellington Tavern. ©Paliparan
wellington tavern room dewsbury
My Dewsbury hotel room at the Wellington Tavern. ©Paliparan
en-suite shower
En-suite shower. ©Paliparan
dewsbury centre street
View from my room. ©Paliparan
dewsbury town centre view
Dewsbury town centre view from my room at the Wellington Tavern. ©Paliparan

A lock-in at the pub

By far the best part of my stay in Dewsbury turned out to be the evening I spent enjoying a couple of pints at the Wellington Tavern.

The Wellington Tavern is a bog-standard pub, and not particularly special in itself like the West Riding Refreshment Rooms at Dewsbury railway station, but it was the absolutely fabulous people that made the place special.

It’s the type of pub where blue-collar workers come in for a pint or two and a chat after a long day at work, with punters who are not shy about including strangers.

After ordering a pint, I quickly ended up chatting with Steve, a Leeds United fan sitting on the barstool next to me.

It did not take long for him to introduce me to the other pub regulars, who were quite a colourful bunch.

In fact, it almost felt like stepping into a sketch from the TV show Little Britain.

There were a few Vicky Pollard-type girls in the pub drinking some disgustingly sweet blue vodka-based concoction, and even Dewsbury’s very own Daffyd Thomas (“the only gay in the village”), albeit much leaner than the fictional character played by Matt Lucas.

Despite all the vastly different characters in the pub from a variety of backgrounds, the evening was full of good old-fashioned English banter and jokes back and forth.

It certainly reinforced my previously held belief that it is the working classes who are, at heart, the most inclusive in society, rather than the upper classes.

When it was closing time, there was even a proper lock-in at the pub, with me and some of the punters continuing behind closed doors for a couple more pints.

I never expected to have such a fun evening in Dewsbury of all places!

wellington tavern pint beer dewsbury
Enjoying a pint of beer at the Wellington Tavern. ©Paliparan
koen pub dewsbury
Steve and me having some fun in the pub. ©Paliparan
blue stuff beer
Pints of beer and some of the deadly blue stuff. ©Paliparan

Breakfast

After the long drinking session, I fortunately only had to stumble upstairs to my room, and although I did not get as many hours of sleep as I would have liked, I still woke up feeling well enough rested.

Breakfast was included in my booking rate and consisted of a full English breakfast served downstairs in the still-closed pub.

It was absolutely delicious – and much needed after the previous night’s drinking!

empty pub
An empty pub the following morning. ©Paliparan
wellington tavern dewsbury full english breakfast
Full English breakfast at the Wellington Tavern. ©Paliparan

A walk back to the railway station

Having dropped off the keys to my room at the bar, I left the tavern and walked through the still-empty streets of Dewsbury.

After seeing the ornate Victorian town hall – the most notable building in Dewsbury – I headed back to the railway station, as I had a train to Leeds to catch.

Again, apart from one or two beautiful old buildings I passed along the way, the streets of Dewsbury felt rather run-down.

My visit to Dewsbury was certainly quite the contrast.

wellington tavern dewsbury
The Wellington Tavern. ©Paliparan
dewsbury minster
Dewsbury Minster. ©Paliparan
street town centre dewsbury
Town centre street. ©Paliparan
boarded-up storefronts dewsbury run-down decay
Boarded-up storefronts. ©Paliparan
empty lot
Empty lot. ©Paliparan
dewsbury station
Back at Dewsbury station, waiting for the train to Leeds to arrive. ©Paliparan
dewsbury station transpennine express train leeds
The TransPennine Express train to Leeds arrives at the railway station of Dewsbury. ©Paliparan

Conclusion

Dewsbury is not your typical travel destination, as there is little of interest for anyone to come here unless you have friends in town or business to attend to.

The only reason I came to Dewsbury was that it had the cheapest accommodation rates in the Greater Leeds area that night.

Dewsbury’s reputation as a run-down town is partly justified, as there is a lot of overall neglect and a somewhat uneasy atmosphere in the centre.

Yet Dewsbury is also much more than that, as I met some genuinely friendly and welcoming people in the town’s pubs, such as the West Riding Refreshment Rooms and the Wellington Tavern.

As negative as some newspaper headlines about a town or city can be, it is always worth remembering that there are still ordinary people living there, many of whom are hard-working, honest, and friendly.

Trip report index

This article is part of the ‘From Cornwall to Yorkshire: Train Travel Through England‘ trip report, which consists of the following chapters:

1. My British Airways Cancellation and Compensation Saga
2. Review: Turkish Airlines Airbus A350 Business Class Bucharest to Istanbul
3. Review: Turkish Airlines Business Lounge Istanbul Airport
4. Review: Turkish Airlines Airbus A321 Business Class Istanbul to Birmingham
5. Review: CrossCountry Train Birmingham International to Reading
6. Thirsty in Tyburnia: Spending a Sunny Afternoon in London
7. London Paddington and the GWR First Class Lounge
8. Review: GWR Night Riviera Sleeper Train London to Penzance, Cornwall
9. Penzance: A Visit to Cornwall’s Down-to-Earth Seaside Town
10. By Train to St Ives: A Trip on the Branch Line From St Erth
11. St Ives: Cornwall’s Most Picturesque Seaside Town
12. St Michael’s Mount: A Visit to Cornwall’s Most Iconic Sight
13. Review: Great Western Railway (GWR) Penzance to Plymouth
14. GWR Pullman Dining: Great Food on One of Britain’s Best Trains
15. Review: Avanti West Coast First Class London to Manchester
16. A Dewsbury Lock-In: A Night in Britain’s Most Run-Down Town (current chapter)

** rest of the chapters to follow soon **

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Koen

Koen is the founding father and editor-in-chief of Paliparan. As a professional travel writer specialising in rail and aviation, he travels tens of thousands of miles each year by plane and train, both for work and on his personal holidays. Whether it is horse riding in Kyrgyzstan’s Tian Shan mountains, exploring the backstreets of Bogotá, or sipping a glass of moschofilero in a Greek seaside taverna, Koen loves to immerse himself into the local culture, explore new places and eat and drink himself around the world. Based in Romania, he has a special affinity for Central and Eastern Europe and the Balkans. You can follow Koen on his travels on Twitter, Facebook, or Instagram.

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