The Fortified Church of Hosman (Holzmengen), Sibiu County

This destination guide covers a visit to the Saxon fortified church of Hosman (Holzmengen) in Sibiu County, Romania.

A drive through Sibiu County

After my visit to the highly impressive Saxon fortified church of Biertan I walked back to my car and started to plan where to go next on my Transylvanian road trip.

Although I had shortlisted several other fortified churches in Sibiu County, it dawned on me that I wouldn’t be able to visit all of them as it was already getting late and I still had a relatively long drive ahead to my overnight accommodation in Avrig.

I did however realise that I would still have enough time to visit one more fortified church on my way from Biertan to Avrig.

Having taken a quick look at the map, I made the decision to stop in Hosman on my drive south through Sibiu County.

biertan
The Saxon fortified church of Biertan. ©Paliparan

Richiș

Just 6 kilometres south of Biertan, I passed through the next town that boasted its own fortified church.

This is the town of Richiș, called Reichesdorf in German.

I had contemplated visiting Richiș instead, but upon learning that most of the defensive walls and towers of this fortified church have been dismantled, I decided against it.

However, I couldn’t resist the temptation to make a quick stop in the centre and take a brief 5-minute look around.

Richiș
Approaching the town of Richiș. ©Paliparan
Richiș
Beautiful house in Richiș. ©Paliparan
Richiș
Richiș. ©Paliparan
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The Saxon fortified church in Richiș. ©Paliparan
Richiș church
Richiș church. ©Paliparan
Richiș church
The church in Richiș is sadly not-so fortified anymore. ©Paliparan
Richiș
Old Saxon house in Richiș. ©Paliparan

Country roads

Driving further south, some beautiful country roads brought me through towns and villages with names like Bârghiș, Alțâna and Nocrich.

The roads were surprisingly devoid of traffic, which made for a pleasant drive.

A few miles outside of Hosman, the breathtaking silhouette of the Carpathian Mountains began to emerge on the horizon.

Richiș
Driving out of Richiș. ©Paliparan
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The empty roads were an absolute pleasure to drive. ©Paliparan
hairpin turn forest road
Hairpin turn on a forest road. ©Paliparan
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Brand new tarmac on a road somewhere in Transylvania. ©Paliparan
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Driving through a Transylvanian village. ©Paliparan
road view
View from the road. ©Paliparan
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A few miles outside of Hosman, the Carpathians appeared on the horizon. ©Paliparan
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After a while, Hosman and its fortified church appeared in view. ©Paliparan

Hosman

Few towns in Romania can rival the picturesque view of Hosman.

Although the Carpathian foothills are still some 35 kilometres further away to the south across the River Olt, these mountains form a spectacular backdrop to the town of Hosman on a clear day.

This is particularly true in winter or early spring, when the snow-capped Carpathians look exceptionally stunning.

The visibility on this autumn day was excellent, allowing me to clearly spot both the fortified church of Hosman and some of the Carpathian peaks in the distance.

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Gorgeous view over Hosman and the Carpathian Mountains. ©Paliparan

Hosman fortified church

The small town of Hosman, which is called Holzmengen in German, has just under 800 inhabitants.

Hosman’s fortified church is believed to have been built in the late 13th century on a hill overlooking the village.

Around the year 1500 the bell tower was increased in height and equipped with battlements.

The fortified church of Hosman has two layers of defensive walls, which were also built in the early 16th century.

These walls are connected to a gate tower through which you can enter the complex.

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The gate tower of the fortified church of Hosman. ©Paliparan
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Saxon fortified church of Hosman. ©Paliparan

A look inside the church

Although originally built in Romanesque style, Hosman’s fortified church was converted into a Baroque hall church in the late 18th century.

The west portal does however still contain some of the old Romanesque reliefs depicting the baptism of Christ in the River Jordan.

Sadly, I couldn’t see any of this as the doors of the church were firmly shut.

I was able to contact the keyholder by phone, but unfortunately, she was too busy to come and open the doors to give me a short tour of the church.

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As the doors of the church were firmly shut, I had no choice but to turn back to my car. ©Paliparan
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View from the fortified church over Hosman. ©Paliparan
hosman holzmengen fortified church
Hosman. ©Paliparan
saxon fortified church hosman holzmengen
Walking back to my car. ©Paliparan

From Hosman to Avrig

From Hosman, it was a relatively short ride to my overnight accommodation in Avrig.

However, the drive took much longer than I had anticipated, as I couldn’t resist making several picture stops along the way due to the breathtaking scenery.

Already on the main road towards Cornățel the views are pretty, but they become even more beautiful once you turn off onto the 104G road towards Săcădate and Avrig.

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Rural scenery on the road from Hosman to Avrig. ©Paliparan
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View from the Hosman-Avrig road. ©Paliparan
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The beautiful Transylvanian countryside. ©Paliparan
hosman countryside
Scenic view over the surrounding countryside. ©Paliparan
Cornățel Săcădate road
The scenic road between Cornățel and Săcădate. ©Paliparan

River Olt

About halfway between Cornățel and Săcădate, the road descends into the picturesque valley of the River Olt.

The views from this road are simply breathtaking as on a clear day you can see for miles across in the distance.

Once again, the majestic Carpathian Mountains, or to be precise the Făgăraș Mountains as this subchain of the Carpathians is called, create a formidable backdrop.

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The valley of the River Olt. ©Paliparan
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Downhill towards the River Olt. ©Paliparan
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Yours truly admiring the fine views over the River Olt and the Carpathians. ©Paliparan

Săcădate

Before you reach the River Olt you will first have to drive through the village of Săcădate.

For a small village, Săcădate boasts three impressive churches: A Romanian Orthodox church, a Greek Catholic church, and a Hungarian Evangelical church.

Săcădate hosman holzmengen romania fortified church
Approaching the village of Săcădate. ©Paliparan
Săcădate
Driving through Săcădate. ©Paliparan
Săcădate
Săcădate. ©Paliparan
Hungarian Evangelical Church Săcădate Hosman Holzmengen
Hungarian Evangelical Church in Săcădate. ©Paliparan
Săcădate
Street in Săcădate. ©Paliparan

Towards Avrig

Just outside of Săcădate, the road crosses a dam over the River Olt, leading to the southern side of the river.

Due to the presence of multiple dams along its course, which have created large reservoirs, the River Olt often looks more like a canal rather than a natural river.

After crossing the river, I finally arrived in the town of Avrig, where I had planned to spend the night at the charming Brukenthal Palace.

Săcădate
Driving towards the River Olt crossing south of Săcădate. ©Paliparan
Săcădate Avrig river olt dam
Dam across the River Olt linking Săcădate with Avrig. ©Paliparan
river olt
The River Olt. ©Paliparan
brukenthal palace avrig
Brukenthal Palace, my overnight accommodation in Avrig. ©Paliparan

Conclusion

The drive from Biertan to Hosman and Avrig was one of the most beautiful I have experienced in Transylvania.

Although I was sadly not able to visit the interior of the fortified church of Hosman, I still tremendously enjoyed its picturesque setting, accentuated by the awe-inspiring backdrop of the Carpathian Mountains.

When visiting Hosman, be sure to continue your journey south towards Săcădate and Avrig, as the views overlooking the River Olt from this road are truly superb.

Trip report index

This article is part of the ‘Visiting the Saxon Fortified Churches of Transylvania‘ trip report, which consists of the following chapters:

1. The Fortified Church of Harman (Honigberg), Brasov County
2. The Fortified Church of Prejmer (Tartlau), Brasov County
3. The Fortified Church of Feldioara (Marienburg), Brasov County
4. A Visit to Rupea Fortress
5. The Fortified Church of Homorod (Hamruden), Brasov County
6. Racoș: Exploring an Extinct Volcano and Abandoned Castle
7. In the Footsteps of King Charles: A Visit to Viscri, Romania
8. A Visit to the Fortified Church of Viscri, Brasov County
9. A Night Walk Around the Citadel and Old Town of Sighisoara
10. Review: Hotel Casa Wagner, Sighisoara, Romania
11. The Fortified Church of Saschiz (Keisd), Mureș County
12. The Fortified Church of Cloasterf (Klosdorf), Mureș County
13. The Fortified Church of Mesendorf (Meschendorf), Brasov County
14. The Fortified Church of Crit (Deutsch-Kreuz), Brasov County
15. The Fortified Church of Biertan (Birthälm), Sibiu County
16. The Fortified Church of Hosman (Holzmengen), Sibiu County (current chapter)
17. Review: Brukenthal Palace Hotel, Avrig
18. A Visit to Sambata de Sus and the Brancoveanu Monastery
19. Into the Carpathians: A Beautiful Drive to Moieciu de Sus

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Koen

Koen works as a freelance journalist covering south-eastern Europe and is the founding father and editor-in-chief of Paliparan. As a contributor to some major Fleet Street newspapers and some lesser known publications in the Balkans, he travels thousands of miles each year for work as well as on his personal holidays. Whether it is horse riding in Kyrgyzstan’s Tian Shan mountains, exploring the backstreets of Bogotá, or sipping a glass of moschofilero in a Greek beachside taverna, Koen loves to immerse himself into the local culture, explore new places and eat and drink himself around the world. You can follow Koen on his travels on Twitter, Facebook, or Instagram.

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