From Milan to Varenna and Tirano By Trenord Regional Train

April 15, 2023September 20, 2024 Koen 0 Comments

This review shows how the trip on board a Trenord regional train on the highly scenic railway line between Milan, Varenna and Tirano is like.

Milano Centrale

After a brief train ride from Bergamo to Milan, it was time to commence my journey in earnest.

From Milan, I would take a Trenord regional train to the town of Tirano on the border with Switzerland.

These Trenord trains are not only filled with passengers traveling to and from Tirano, but also with those embarking from Milan to explore the breathtaking towns along the shores of Lake Como such as Lecco and Varenna.

Located in a beautiful mountain valley, Tirano is the terminus of the standard-gauge railway line from Milan but also marks the starting point of the famous narrow-gauge Bernina Railway that winds its way into Switzerland.

The train ride from Milan to Tirano is known for its stunning scenery, with picturesque views of Lake Como and Alpine valleys along the way.

The train journey to Tirano starts at Milano Centrale, Milan’s highly impressive main railway station.

milan central railway station — *Grand staircases at Milano Centrale. ©Paliparan*

milan train station — *The platforms of Milano Centrale station. ©Paliparan*

trenord regional train milan tirano — *Boarding my Trenord regional train. ©Paliparan*

Inside the Trenord train

Trains on the line from Milan to Varenna and Tirano are operated by Trenord using modern rolling stock.

Italian regional train tickets, including the Trenord services north of Milan, are known for their affordability.

A one-way ticket from Milan to Varenna costs €7.10 in second class or €10.50 in first class, whereas a journey from Milan to Tirano would be €12 in second class and €18 in first class.

Ticket prices remain fixed whether purchased online in advance or at the station shortly before departure.

It’s worth noting that not all trains on this route offer first-class seating as some are second-class only.

Although there isn’t much difference in seat comfort in my opinion, first class tends to be less crowded.

With an Interrail or Eurail pass, no additional supplement or reservation is required to ride the Trenord trains, allowing you the convenience to simply hop on board any train of your choice.

As seat reservations are not offered, there is no risk of these trains being fully booked.

While you have the flexibility to take any available seat when you board these Trenord trains, it’s highly recommended to opt for a seat on the left-hand side when traveling north from Milan to Tirano in order to enjoy the best views of Lake Como.

While the train has a toilet and there are power sockets in both classes, there are no other facilities on board, so it’s recommended to bring your own water and food.

first class seats trenord regional train tirano — *First class seating on a Trenord regional train. ©Paliparan*

train screen trenord — *Screens in the train show all the stops. ©Paliparan*

second class trenord regional train milan tirano — *Second class seats on the Trenord regional train. ©Paliparan*

trenord second class seats train — *Trenord second class seats. ©Paliparan*

Milan to Varenna-Esino
Train RE 2826 – Departure: 1.20pm – Arrival: 2.24pm
Operator: Trenord
Duration: 1h04m – Distance: 71 kilometres

milan varenna tirano railway — *The exact route of the railway line between Milan, Varenna and Tirano. ©OpenStreetMap/Paliparan*

Leaving Milan

Instead of heading straight to Tirano, I had planned to make an intermediate stop in the picturesque town of Varenna during the afternoon.

After taking some time to relax on the shores of Lake Como, I would then continue onward to Tirano on the same railway line.

The views during the initial half hour or so aren’t the most spectacular.

As you leave the extensive suburbs of Milan behind, you will still pass through a highly urbanized landscape, including cities like Monza, known for its racing circuit that hosts the annual Italian Formula 1 Grand Prix.

Although my train was absolutely packed on this beautiful Monday in June, I was fortunate that the seat next to me in first class remained empty.

milano centrale sign train milan — *Departing Milano Centrale. ©Paliparan*

milano centrale railway yards — *Riding out of Milan’s main railway station. ©Paliparan*

*View near Milano Greco Pirelli station. ©Paliparan*

monza trenord station — *The station of Monza with an older Trenord train at the opposite platform. ©Paliparan*

Lecco

Shortly before you arrive at the station of Lecco you will get your first glimpses of Lake Como when the train crosses a bridge over the River Adda.

At this point, the mountains that form the formidable backdrop of Lake Como come into view as well.

Lecco serves as an important railway junction, with a line branching off towards Bergamo.

While not as picturesque as Varenna, the small city of Lecco can be a pleasant stop during your journey if you have the time to spare.

Being an important regional hub, Lecco offers a local vibe distinct from more touristy towns on Lake Como such as Varenna and especially Bellagio.

river adda lake como bridge — *Crossing the River Adda just south of Lake Como. ©Paliparan*

trenord milan lecco train — *Stop at the station of Lecco, with a modern Trenord double deck train at the opposite side of the platform. ©Paliparan*

lecco train station — *The station of Lecco. ©Paliparan*

lecco main street — *The main street of Lecco (picture taken on a previous trip). ©Paliparan*

lecco lake como — *Lecco has a beautiful location on the shores of Lake Como. ©Paliparan*

Along Lake Como

After the stop at Lecco, the train journey becomes increasingly scenic.

At this point, the railway line hugs the eastern shore of Lake Come, so do make sure you are sitting on the left-hand side of the train when travelling north to Tirano.

The views over the mountainous shores of Lake Como are among the best you can experience in Italy.

lake como milan varenna train — *View from the train over Lake Como. ©Paliparan*

train view — *At this point, the railway line runs parallel to the main road. ©Paliparan*

*Passing through the village of Abbadia Lariana. ©Paliparan*

mondello del lario station milan varenna — *Mondello del Lario station. ©Paliparan*

lake como view — *Lake Como view from the train. ©Paliparan*

Church of Saint Euphemia Olcio milan varenna train trenord — *Passing by the Church of Saint Euphemia in Olcio. ©Paliparan*

lake como — *Riding along the eastern shoreline of Lake Como. ©Paliparan*

lierna train milan varenna — *The lakeside village of Lierna. ©Paliparan*

Approaching Varenna

A few minutes before reaching Varenna, you can already catch a glimpse of the town jutting into Lake Como ahead of you.

As the train passes through a railway tunnel, it slows down and directly enters the small station of Varenna-Esino as it emerges outside.

At this point, I disembarked from the train along with several dozen other passengers.

From Varenna-Esino station, the town center of Varenna is just a 10-minute walk away along a clearly marked path.

Varenna

In my opinion, Varenna is the most pleasant town to stop over when traveling by train between Milan and Tirano.

I will provide detailed information about my experiences visiting Varenna in the next chapter of this trip report.

varenna lake como italy — *The beautiful town of Varenna. ©Paliparan*

Varenna station

After a couple of hours in Varenna it was time to continue my train trip to Tirano.

Arriving early at the station of Varenna-Esino is hardly a crime as there is a charming bar located inside the station building.

As I waited for my train to arrive, I treated myself to an Aperol Spritz on the outdoor terrace of the bar.

varenna-esino train station trenord milan tirano — *Varenna-Esino station. ©Paliparan*

varenna station bar — *The Varenna station bar. ©Paliparan*

varenna train station aperol spritz — *Enjoying an Aperol Spritz at the station of Varenna. ©Paliparan*

Varenna-Esino to Tirano
Train RE 2832 – Departure: 5.25pm – Arrival: 6.52pm
Operator: Trenord
Duration: 1h27m – Distance: 84 kilometres

Onward to Tirano

Although the platform of Varenna station was full of people, it turned out that most of them were waiting for the southbound train back to Milan.

When the train from Milan to Tirano emerged from the tunnel and stopped at Varenna station, only a handful of passengers boarded the train.

Fortunately, the train was only about half-full, which allowed me to easily secure a good window seat.

Up until the station of Colico you can still enjoy some beautiful views over Lake Como from your left-hand side.

varenna station — *Passengers waiting at Varenna station. ©Paliparan*

varenna colico tirano train view trenord — *View between Varenna and Colico. ©Paliparan*

colico lake como — *Approaching Colico. ©Paliparan*

trenord train colico — *A Trenord train full of graffiti at Colico station. ©Paliparan*

River valley

Once the train departs from the town of Colico, the railway line follows the course of the River Adda all the way upstream towards Tirano.

At the beginning of the journey, the river valley is quite wide.

However, the mountains at both sides of the valley do offer some pretty views.

adda river valley — *The Adda river valley. ©Paliparan*

adda valley — *Although it’s not as spectacular as the ride along the shores of Lake Como, the Adda valley does offer some scenic views as well. ©Paliparan*

mountain valley tirano milan train — *At first, the valley is quite wide. ©Paliparan*

morbegno station — *Stop at the station of Morbegno. ©Paliparan*

Mountains

Between Morbegno and Sondrio, the valley narrows and the mountains rise in height.

From the window, you can catch glimpses of quaint mountainside villages, each with its own tall church tower.

As the train nears the station of Sondrio, you can spot the Convent of San Lorenzo and two castles towering above the town.

tartano river — *Crossing the Tartano River. ©Paliparan*

adda valley railway line tirano — *The railway line runs parallel to the main road through the Adda Valley. ©Paliparan*

church mountain village adda valley milan tirano train — *From the train you can easily spot the church towers of the mountain villages. ©Paliparan*

view tirano train — *View between Morbegno and Sondrio. ©Paliparan*

sondrio italy — *Approaching the town of Sondrio. ©Paliparan*

Vineyards

Soon after leaving Sondrio, you’ll notice the mountainsides becoming much steeper.

A number of slopes have been terraced and converted into vineyards, adding to the picturesque scenery along the way.

*View over Poggiridenti from the train to Tirano. ©Paliparan*

vineyards train tirano — *Vineyards around the town of Poggiridenti Piano. ©Paliparan*

vineyards railway — *The railway line passes directly through vineyards. ©Paliparan*

chiuro — *View towards the town of Chiuro. ©Paliparan*

terraced vineyard tirano train — *More terraced vineyards on the mountains. ©Paliparan*

Arrival in Tirano

While the sun was gradually setting behind the mountains, the train slowed down as it approached the outskirts of Tirano.

As the train rides into Tirano, you can already see some Rhaetian Railways narrow-gauge trains parked in railway yards on the left-hand side.

My Trenord train eventually came to a halt at the terminus station of Tirano, arriving right on schedule.

tirano arrival view — *Approaching Tirano. ©Paliparan*

tirano italy — *View over Tirano from the train window. ©Paliparan*

Rhaetian Railway yards tirano — *Passing by the railway yards of the Rhaetian Railway, the company which operates the narrow-gauge trains from Tirano into Switzerland. ©Paliparan*

trenord train milan tirano — *My Trenord train has arrived at the station in Tirano after a beautiful journey from Milan. ©Paliparan*

Tirano stations

The Trenord station in Tirano for trains to Milan is conveniently situated right next to the Rhaetian Railway station, where you can catch narrow-gauge trains heading into Switzerland.

Indeed, many travellers come to Tirano by train specifically to experience the famous Bernina Express, a scenic railway operated by the Rhaetian Railways that runs between Tirano in Italy and Chur in Switzerland.

After a night’s sleep in town that would also be my plan for the following morning!

tirano train stations trenord Rhaetian Railway — *The Trenord station in Tirano (left) is located directly next to the Rhaetian Railway station for narrow-gauge trains into Switzerland. ©Paliparan*

Conclusion

Taking the train from Milan to Varenna and Tirano makes for a scenic railway journey along the shores of Lake Como and through the mountainous valley of the River Adda.

The Trenord trains operating this route are cheap and surprisingly modern and well-equipped for a regional service.

However, during weekends and the peak summer season, these trains can become quite crowded.

Whether you are traveling directly between Milan and Tirano to connect to the Bernina Express or exploring the picturesque towns along Lake Como, this train journey will surely be a memorable experience.

Trip report index

This article is part of the ‘Scenic Trains Around Switzerland and the Italian Lakes‘ trip report, which consists of the following chapters:

1. Bergamo: A Visit to Lombardy’s Beautiful Hilltop Town
2. Travelling From Bergamo to Milan by Train
3. From Milan to Varenna and Tirano By Trenord Regional Train (current chapter)
4. A Varenna Visit: A Day Trip to Lake Como’s Most Beautiful Town
5. Tirano: The Italian Gateway to the Bernina Railway
6. Bernina Express Train: Guide to Switzerland’s Most Scenic Railway
7. Review: Swiss InterCity (IC) Train Chur to Zurich and Basel
8. From Zurich to Geneva on a Swiss ICN Tilting Train
9. Cheap Geneva Hotel: Stay Across the Border in Annemasse!
10. Around Lake Geneva by Train: From Geneva to Montreux
11. A Visit to Montreux and the Freddie Mercury Statue
12. Golden Pass: Guide to a Scenic Railway Route Across Switzerland
13. Swiss Chique: The MOB GoldenPass Belle Époque Train
14. From the Mountains to the Lake: Zweisimmen to Spiez by Train
15. Spectacular Spiez: A Visit to a Scenic Swiss Town
16. Spiez to Interlaken by Train: A Trip on the Lake Thun Railway Line
17. Review: Interlaken to Lucerne by Zentralbahn Train
18. Lucerne: Exploring One of Switzerland’s Most Beautiful Cities
19. From Lucerne to Locarno: By Train Across the Gotthard
20. A Visit to Locarno and the Sanctuary of Madonna del Sasso