A Visit to the Dahshur Pyramid Complex
This visit guide covers the sights at the Dahshur Pyramid Complex, including the Bent Pyramid and Red Pyramid.
The Dahshur Pyramids
In the greater Cairo area, there are many more pyramids you can visit beyond the ones at Giza.
Being Egypt’s most famous sight, the Giza Pyramids can be crowded, but if you are willing to venture a bit further, you can discover some equally beautiful pyramids without the crowds.
Just 32 kilometres (20 miles) south of central Cairo you can find the Saqqara Necropolis and the famous Step Pyramid of Djoser.
About 7 kilometres (4.4 miles) further south as the crow flies, you can find a couple of more amazing pyramids: Those of the Dahshur Pyramid Complex.
Reaching Dahshur
Dahshur is best to be combined on a day trip from Cairo in combination with the Saqqara Necropolis and Ancient Memphis, as all of these sights are located relatively close to each other.
Most people visit Saqqara and Dahshur through an organised tour, use Ubers to reach each destination, or simply hire a taxi and negotiate a reasonable fare, including enough waiting time at each site so you can explore at ease.
I had negotiated a car and driver for $30 for a half-day trip to the Saqqara Necropolis, the Step Pyramid of Djoser, Ancient Memphis, and the Dahshur Pyramids.
Having explored the wonderful sights at Saqqara, it was a relatively short drive to reach Dahshur.
While the distance between Saqqara and Dahshur is only 7 kilometres as the crow flies, the road distance is double this, taking about half an hour.
It felt rather surreal when the Bent Pyramid at Dahshur appeared on the horizon, as it almost resembled some kind of alien structure on a desert planet like Mars.
About Dahshur
The Dahshur Pyramid Complex, also known as the Dahshur Pyramid Field, features multiple pyramids built in the desert adjoining the fertile left river bank of the Nile.
Dahshur’s two main pyramids – the Bent Pyramid and especially the Red Pyramid – are well-preserved, while others are in a much more ruined state.
Constructed during the 4th Dynasty around 2600 BC, these two main Dahshur pyramids hold great significance in ancient Egyptian history as they symbolise a major transition in the way these structures were designed and built.
While older pyramids, such as the Pyramid of Djoser, featured a step-sided design, this was gradually evolved into a smooth-sided design, resulting in a perfect pyramid with four triangular faces.
The pyramids at Dahshur were attempts to create such a perfect, smooth-sided pyramid, and the knowledge and experience gained during their construction paved the way for the creation of the Great Pyramid of Giza.
If you want to visit Dahshur, you need to pay a minor entrance fee of 60 EGP (€1.80), after which you are free to roam around the complex.
Bent Pyramid
The first pyramid at Dahshur was the Bent Pyramid, constructed under the auspices of Pharaoh Sneferu.
The Bent Pyramid was the initial effort of ancient Egyptian architects and builders to construct a smooth-faced pyramid, yet, as is evident from the pyramid’s appearance, they did not quite succeed.
As you can clearly see, the base of the pyramid is more steep at an angle of 54 degrees than the top, which has an inclination of 43 degrees.
This is how the Bent Pyramid earned its name.
There are a number of theories was the Bent Pyramid has a change in angle at about the halfway point.
One theory suggests that the change in angle of the Bent Pyramid might have resulted from a miscalculation, with builders discovering around halfway through construction that the structure exhibited signs of instability, forcing them to continue with a more shallow angle to prevent a collapse.
The original smooth casing of the Bent Pyramid can still be seen at most sides.
The unusual shape does certainly make the Bent Pyramid and sight to behold, and set towards the bleak desert landscape it looks rather surreal.
Satellite Pyramid
Located just 55 meters (180 ft) south of the Bent Pyramid you can find a small satellite pyramid.
When you walk towards the Satellite Pyramid you might notice how much both structures blend together with the surrounding landscape.
Some archaeologists have suggested that the soil on the desert plateau where the Bent Pyramid was built was artificially levelled to accentuate the monumentality of the structure.
Exploring the Red Pyramid
Next on my Dahshur visit was the other main pyramid at this complex, the Red Pyramid.
The Red Pyramid was constructed by Pharaoh Sneferu immediately after the completion of the Bent Pyramid, and it has the same 43-degree inclination as the upper part of the Bent Pyramid.
The Red Pyramid is often regarded as the first successful attempt at creating a perfect smooth-sided pyramid.
Similar to the Bent Pyramid, traces of the original smooth surface are still visible on some sides of the Red Pyramid.
The name Red Pyramid refers to the red limestone that was used in its construction.
Originally, this pyramid was actually coated with white limestone from Ancient Egypt’s main quarry at Tura, but during the Middle Ages, much of it was looted and utilised in the construction of new buildings in Cairo, thereby revealing the red limestone interior.
At certain points around the pyramid’s base, remnants of the original white limestone can still be seen.
The Red Pyramid is a highly impressive structure to look at, and it’s actually the third largest pyramid in Egypt after the Pyramid of Cheops (the Great Pyramid) and Pyramid of Chephren, both located in Giza.
Other pyramids at Dahshur
Besides the Bent Pyramid and Red Pyramid, Dahshur is also home to three additional pyramids.
However, these pyramids have weathered so much over time that they no longer resemble their original form.
The Pyramid of Pharaoh Amenemhat III, better known as the Black Pyramid, is the biggest of these other three pyramids.
Although it was encased in limestone, the Black Pyramid was mostly made out of mudbricks and clay, which is prone to decay.
Over time, the Black Pyramid has weathered so much that it now looks more like a sandstone butte like those in Monument Valley than an actual pyramid.
Nevertheless, it remains more imposing than both the Pyramid of Senusret III and the Pyramid of Amenemhat II (known as the White Pyramid), as these Dahshur pyramids now resemble little more than piles of rubble.
Crowds
What was perhaps most impressive about the Dahshur pyramids were the crowds – or better to say the complete lack of it.
In fact, apart from a sole police officer who is there to keep an eye out and to make sure that nobody climbs up the pyramids or steals some stones, I was the only person at Dahshur.
It was such a pleasure to walk around Dahshur in all peace and quietness – and such a world apart from all the chaos at Giza!
Conclusion
Even though the Dahshur Pyramid Complex isn’t as well known as Giza and a bit more challenging to visit, the pyramids here are just as stunning.
The unusual shape of the Bent Pyramid, which blends in perfectly with the desert landscape, makes it a sight to behold.
The Red Pyramid, the third largest in Egypt, is an imposing structure that won’t fail to impress either.
What makes Dahshur truly special is the total lack of crowds, as it’s highly probable that you’ll be the sole person here.
Trip report index
This article is part of the ‘Walk Like an Egyptian: A Grand Tour of Egypt‘ trip report, which consists of the following chapters:
1. Red-Eye Ramblings of a Late Night Flight to Cairo
2. A Visit to the Pyramids of Giza by Camel
3. Review: Sofitel Nile El Gezirah, Zamalek, Cairo
4. Exploring the Medieval Old Town and Islamic History of Cairo
5. Visiting the Museum of Egyptian Antiquities in Cairo
6. Mar Girgis: The Churches of Christian Old Cairo
7. Review: Ernst Watania Sleeping Train Cairo to Aswan
8. The Ancient Quarry of Aswan and the Unfinished Obelisk
9. A Boat Ride From Aswan to the Temple of Isis at Philae
10. A Visit to the Aswan High Dam and Lake Nasser
11. A Visit to the Nubian Village on Aswan’s Elephantine Island
12. Aswan Guide: A Visit to Egypt’s Most Stunningly Located City
13. A Half Day Trip From Aswan to Amazing Abu Simbel
14. Nile River Cruise Guide: All Info for Your Egypt Boat Trip
15. Review: M/S Princess Sarah Nile River Cruise Ship
16. Nile Cruise: Sailing From Aswan to Kom Ombo
17. A Visit to the Ancient Crocodile Temple of Kom Ombo
18. A Visit to the Temple of Horus at Edfu
19. Nile Cruise: Sailing From Edfu to Luxor
20. Luxor, Egypt: Visiting the Sights of Ancient Thebes
21. A Visit to Luxor’s Giant Temple Complex of Karnak
22. Visitor Guide to Wonderful Luxor Temple
23. Valley of the Kings: A Visit to Luxor’s Ancient Necropolis
24. The Temple of Hatshepsut: A Visit to a Unique Mortuary Temple
25. Review: Sofitel Winter Palace Hotel, Luxor, Egypt
26. Review: Daytime Train Luxor to Cairo, Egypt
27. Review: Steigenberger Hotel El Tahrir, Cairo
28. A Visit to the Pyramid of Djoser and the Saqqara Necropolis
29. A Visit to the Dahshur Pyramid Complex (current chapter)
30. Memphis: Exploring the Old Capital of Ancient Egypt
31. From Cairo to Alexandria by Train: My Travel Experience
32. Review: Paradise Inn Le Metropole Hotel, Alexandria, Egypt
33. Alexandria: A Visit to Egypt’s Historic Mediterranean Port City
34. Egypt: Impressions and Reflections After My Two Week Trip
35. Epilogue: Safety and How to Deal With Street Hassle in Egypt
