Lucerne: Exploring One of Switzerland’s Most Beautiful Cities
This destination guide covers my visit to the city of Lucerne (Luzern) in Switzerland, famous for its charming old town and the Chapel Bridge.
A visit to Lucerne
After a fabulous trip along lakes and across mountain passes, my train from Interlaken to Lucerne had finally arrived at its destination.
I was certainly looking forward to visiting Lucerne, which is called Luzern in German, the local language spoken by its inhabitants.
Lucerne is considered one of Switzerland’s most beautiful cities, partly due to its scenic lakeside setting, charming old town, and unique sights like the Chapel Bridge.
Although I had once passed through the city by car, I unfortunately never had the time to visit it, so I was happy to finally have the opportunity now.
Lucerne railway station
Lucerne is a bustling city that serves as an important regional hub, and since it is also firmly on the Swiss tourist trail, you shouldn’t expect to be the only one strolling around its old town and admiring all the fine sights.
That becomes clear when you arrive by train at Lucerne’s large railway station, where hundreds of people, locals and tourists alike, crowd the central hall.
Lucerne once had a magnificent old train station that almost resembled a railway cathedral in its grandeur, but it tragically burned down in a big fire in 1971.
The new railway terminus in Lucerne that was built to replace the old station has a more modern feel to it due to all the concrete being used, and therefore lacks the former station’s beauty.
However, the train shed still retains some of the old grandeur, and in front of the station on the forecourt, you can still admire the original arch from the old railway station, which survived the fire.
Lucerne and its lake
Since most visitors arrive in Lucerne by train, you are likely to start your visit at the city’s railway station.
The great thing about the train station in Lucerne is its location in the heart of the city centre, with the old town just a 5 to 10-minute walk away.
As soon as you step outside the station and onto the square in front of it, you’re greeted with terrific views of the lake, with the church spires of Lucerne’s old town visible across the water.
Although known as Lake Lucerne in English, this body of water is not called the ‘Luzerner See’ in German as one might expect.
Instead, the lake is named the Vierwaldstättersee, which literally means ‘Lake of the four forested settlements’.
In case you are wondering, these four areas of settlement were Uri, Schwyz, Unterwalden, and Lucerne.
Uri, Schwyz, and Unterwalden were the founding cantons of the old Swiss Confederation in the 13th century, while Lucerne was the first to join these three rural cantons during the confederation’s initial expansion in the 14th century.
Boats and ferries
There are several jetties and quays in front of Lucerne’s railway station that are used by both tourist excursion boats and regular ferry services across the lake to destinations such as Brunnen.
Next to the railway station, you’ll find another prominent lakeside building, namely the Culture and Congress Centre, which also houses an art museum and concert hall.
With its large overhanging roof, the modern architecture of the Culture and Congress Centre (also known by its German acronym KKL) does feel a bit out of place in Lucerne’s historic cityscape.
River Reuss
Lucerne is defined not only by its picturesque lakeside setting but also by its location on the River Reuss, which divides the city in two.
The River Reuss, which has its source near the Furka Pass in the Canton of Uri, flows into Lake Lucerne near the village of Flüelen at the south-eastern end of the lake, and eventually flows out of the lake again in the heart of Lucerne near the north-western tip of the lake.
Lucerne’s railway station is located on the southern riverbank, while the old town is located on the north bank.
To reach the old town, you therefore have to cross one of the bridges across he River Reuss.
The Seebrücke (Lake Bridge), the main bridge connecting the south bank of the River Reuss to the north bank, is adorned with multiple Swiss flags, as well as the blue-and-white flags of the Canton of Lucerne.
However, the next bridge located a couple of hundred metres further to the west provides a much better way to cross the river into the old town of Lucerne.
This is the famous Kapellbrücke (Chapel Bridge), Lucerne’s most iconic landmark and a must-visit sight.
Chapel Bridge
The Chapel Bridge is a 14th century covered wooden bridge built diagonally across the River Reuss.
The bridge is named after Saint Peter’s Chapel, a Catholic church located at the northern end of the bridge in Lucerne’s old town.
Rising out of the water at the middle of the bridge stands the Wasserturm (Water Tower), an octagonal tower measuring 34.5 metres (113 ft), which historically served as a prison, treasury, and a place to house the city’s archives.
Although you cannot visit the Water Tower, you are free to stroll across the Chapel Bridge and to admire its fine paintings and views over the river and Lucerne’s old town.
It’s these paintings, placed in triangular wooden frames that support the roof, that make the Chapel Bridge special.
The paintings inside the Chapel Bridge depict events from Lucerne’s rich history, as well as Biblical scenes.
Some of the paintings date back to the 16th century, when the city council first decided to decorate the bridge, with the last works being completed in the 17th century.
However, only a few of the paintings you see are originals, as many of them are restored versions or replicas.
During the night of 17 August to 18 August 1993, the Chapel Bridge caught fire, resulting in the destruction of two-thirds of the bridge, including many of its historic paintings.
The bridge was meticulously reconstructed and restored, and a year after the great fire, Lucerne’s most important landmark was reopened again.
Other bridges in Lucerne
The Chapel Bridge isn’t the only one in Lucerne that spans the River Reuss.
Just to the west of the Chapel Bridge is another pedestrian bridge.
While this bridge is not a notable sight in itself, together with the riverbank it does offer the best spot from where to photograph the Chapel Bridge.
Even further to the west is another famous covered wooden bridge.
Called the Spreuerbrücke (Spreuer Bridge), this 15th-century bridge also features several beautiful paintings on triangular wooden frames, similar to those on the Chapel Bridge.
However, the paintings on this bridge have a more terrifying theme, as they depict medieval Danse Macabre (Dance of Death) scenes.
As you walk towards this bridge along the River Reuss, don’t forget to admire the 17th-century Jesuit Church of Saint Francis Xavier, the first major Baroque church built north of the Alps in Switzerland.
A visit to the old town of Lucerne
After admiring the beautiful bridges of Lucerne, I headed into the old town to explore all the sights there, starting at the Lucerne Town Hall.
The town hall was built in the early 17th century in Italian Renaissance style and features a stone clock tower.
As it was a sunny summer afternoon when I visited Lucerne, the old town was full of local people and tourists taking a stroll or enjoying some alfresco drinks or a meal.
This was indeed the scene in the streets around the town hall, as a bustling fruit and vegetable market was held directly under its arches, while nearby areas were filled with cafés and restaurants.
I decided to sit down as well for a beer at one of the riverside terraces near the Town Hall to soak up the fine views and lively vibe.
Old town frescoes
The old town of Lucerne is renowned for its fine medieval buildings, many of which are adorned with intricate frescoes.
Although some of these painted façades are centuries old, others have been painted more recently.
Regardless of their age, each fresco tells a story about the building’s origins, its function, or its past owners.
One of the oldest and most beautiful frescoes can be found on the outer walls of Zunfthaus zu Pfistern, which used to be the guild house of the local bakers and millers.
Among the details on this giant fresco are the guild coats of arms with a pretzel, mill wheel, and wheat sack, as well as a mighty family tree consisting of intertwined vines representing the founders of the house.
Although the guild was dissolved in 1875 and the building had various functions under multiple new owners, it has actually returned to its roots as it now houses a bakers’ cooperative besides a restaurant.
Another interesting fresco you can admire during your visit to the old town of Lucerne is the one on the façade of Restaurant Fritschi.
Painted by Swiss artist Walter Ottiger in 1985, this is one of the newer façade paintings in the old town of Lucerne, though it does depict the historical roots of the building.
The restaurant is named after Brother Fritschi, who fought with great courage in the Battle of Ragaz in 1446, during which the Old Swiss Confederation managed to defeat a force five times their size from the imperial city of Zurich and its Habsburg allies.
In the years that followed, the victory was celebrated with a yearly parade, and Fritschi was honoured with a special parade wagon dedicated to his heroism.
This victory parade eventually evolved into a carnival celebration known as ‘Fassnacht’, which is now celebrated throughout Switzerland.
On the fresco, you can see Brother Fritschi and his wife in carnival masks, flanked by a maid, a clown, a farmhand, and a joker.
During the victory parade, Brother Fritschi and his followers would hand out oranges to the townsfolk, as they were a prized commodity back then.
This tradition has survived to this day during Swiss carnival, which is why you see oranges depicted on the fresco.
Streets and squares
The old town of Lucerne is best explored by wandering around at random, as around each corner you will find yet another beautiful square or charming street.
In particular, the Weinmarkt (Wine Market) is a splendid square adorned with some elaborate old buildings and a beautiful fountain.
The Weinmarkt is also a historically significant place, as the citizens of Lucerne swore an oath of loyalty here in 1332 to the three founding cantons (Urkantone) that made up the Old Swiss Confederation, namely Uri, Schwyz, and Unterwalden.
Some of the buildings on the Weinmarkt, such as Hotel des Balances, a former guild hall, also feature fine frescoes.
Among the frescoes on the painted façade of this hotel is an image of Lady Justice, symbolising that justice was once administered under the tree in this square.
Chapel Square, where Saint Peter’s Chapel is situated, is another charming old town square featuring its own fountain.
Grand hotels
After exploring the old town, I headed towards the lakeside to discover an entirely different side of Lucerne.
While the old town of Lucerne has a lot of Medieval charm, the lakeside has many grand hotels built in the 19th century, such as the 5-star Hotel Schweizerhof.
Many famous guests, royals, and statesmen have stayed at the Hotel Schweizerhof, including Queen Elizabeth II, Sir Winston Churchill, French Emperor Napoleon III, German Emperor Wilhelm II, and Belgian King Leopold I.
It was also a popular hangout for writers and artists such as Hans Christian Andersen, while Leo Tolstoy and Mark Twain have stayed at the hotel and even written about their experiences in Lucerne.
Moreover, it was at the Hotel Schweizerhof where Richard Wagner completed his opera Tristan and Isolde.
With the majestic views over Lake Lucerne and the backdrop of the Alps, it’s easy to see why so many people were drawn to this location!
Back to the railway station
While I was strolling down the lakeside promenade, the weather suddenly changed completely, as the mostly blue skies gave way to dark storm clouds.
When I reached the 17th-century Church of Saint Leodegar, I decided to turn around and head back to the railway station early.
Although I would have loved to visit more of Lucerne, such as exploring the old city walls and defensive towers on the hills overlooking the old town, or going to the highly-rated Swiss Museum of Transport, I knew I had to head back to the station eventually because my accommodation for the night was on the other side of the Alps in Locarno.
Anticipating the imminent rain, I decided it was a better idea to begin my rail journey south across the Alps while there was still daylight, as this way, I could at least enjoy the stunning mountain scenery along the way.
On my way back to the railway station, I took a slight detour so I could walk across the Chapel Bridge once again, soaking up its beauty during the final moments of my visit to Lucerne.
Conclusion
It’s easy to see why Lucerne is one of Switzerland’s most popular tourist destinations, as this lakeside city packs plenty of charm and offers numerous interesting sights.
Lucerne is best known for its Chapel Bridge, a highly picturesque covered wooden bridge dating back to the 14th century.
What makes this bridge special are the beautiful paintings displayed in the triangular frames that support the roof of the bridge.
Lucerne also has a large old town with charming cobblestone streets and inviting squares full of lively outdoor cafés and appealing restaurants.
Make sure you take your time to admire the fine painted façades of the Medieval old town buildings during your visit, as each fresco tells a story about the history and culture of Lucerne.
A visit to Lucerne isn’t complete without a stroll along the lakeside promenade or a boat ride across the lake to enjoy the magnificent views and Alpine backdrop.
Although Lucerne is certainly touristy if you decide to visit at the height of summer, it remains a popular destination for good reasons, and I would highly recommend adding the city to your Swiss itinerary.
Trip report index
This article is part of the ‘Scenic Trains Around Switzerland and the Italian Lakes‘ trip report, which consists of the following chapters:
1. Bergamo: A Visit to Lombardy’s Beautiful Hilltop Town
2. Travelling From Bergamo to Milan by Train
3. From Milan to Varenna and Tirano By Trenord Regional Train
4. A Varenna Visit: A Day Trip to Lake Como’s Most Beautiful Town
5. Tirano: The Italian Gateway to the Bernina Railway
6. Bernina Express Train: Guide to Switzerland’s Most Scenic Railway
7. Review: Swiss InterCity (IC) Train Chur to Zurich and Basel
8. From Zurich to Geneva on a Swiss ICN Tilting Train
9. Cheap Geneva Hotel: Stay Across the Border in Annemasse!
10. Around Lake Geneva by Train: From Geneva to Montreux
11. A Visit to Montreux and the Freddie Mercury Statue
12. Golden Pass: Guide to a Scenic Railway Route Across Switzerland
13. Swiss Chique: The MOB GoldenPass Belle Époque Train
14. From the Mountains to the Lake: Zweisimmen to Spiez by Train
15. Spectacular Spiez: A Visit to a Scenic Swiss Town
16. Spiez to Interlaken by Train: A Trip on the Lake Thun Railway Line
17. Review: Interlaken to Lucerne by Zentralbahn Train
18. Lucerne: Exploring One of Switzerland’s Most Beautiful Cities (current chapter)
19. From Lucerne to Locarno: By Train Across the Gotthard
20. A Visit to Locarno and the Sanctuary of Madonna del Sasso
21. Centovalli Railway: By Train From Locarno to Domodossola
22. Stresa: Grand Hotels, Lakeside Views, and the Borromean Islands
** rest of the chapters to follow soon **
