This review details my train journey from Locarno (Switzerland) to Domodossola (Italy) on the scenic Centovalli Railway Line.
From Locarno to Domodossola by train
With my visit to the lovely lakeside city of Locarno, my time in Switzerland had come to an end.
I was heading back to Italy, and to get there from Locarno, I would take a train on the highly scenic Centovalli Railway across the border to Domodossola.
The narrow-gauge railway line between Locarno in Switzerland and Domodossola in Italy is commonly known as the Centovalli Railway.
Centovalli is a Swiss valley and municipality to the west of Locarno through which the railway line passes.
Literally translated from Italian, the word Centovalli means “hundred valleys,” and if you take a train ride along this railway line, you will indeed enjoy breathtaking views over several mountain valleys.
However, the Italians sometimes refer to the railway line as the Vigezzina, named after the Vigezzo Valley on the Italian side of the border through which the train also passes.
The Centovalli Railway Line, which opened on 25 November 1923, is a remarkable feat of engineering, crossing 83 bridges and passing through 31 tunnels on the stretch between Locarno and Domodossola.
The railway line was not only built to connect the communities in the Centovalli and Vigezzo Valleys, but also to link the Swiss cantons of Ticino and Valais.
Although passengers can travel between Ticino and Valais via the Gotthard Railway, it is quite a detour.
Rail planners correctly recognised that the fastest route from Ticino to Valais would actually be via Italy.
The newly opened Centovalli Railway linked Locarno to the Simplon Railway at Domodossola, providing a much more direct connection from Ticino to Valais and the French-speaking cantons of Switzerland.
Locarno railway station
I started my trip at Locarno’s railway station, which is located in the centre of the city.
Note that the platforms above ground are for trains on the standard-gauge railway line from Locarno to Chiasso, Bellinzona, and the Gotthard Pass.
To catch the narrow-gauge train to Domodossola, you need to head to the underground station called Locarno FART.
FART is the unfortunate acronym of the Ferrovie Autolinee Regionali Ticinesi, or the Regional Bus and Rail Company of Ticino, which operates the Swiss section of the Centovalli Railway.
The Italian section of the Centovalli Railway is operated by the Società Subalpina Imprese Ferroviarie (SSIF).
Different Centovalli trains
FART and SSIF jointly operate trains on the Centovalli Railway Line between Locarno and Domodossola.
Some of these trains do not cross the Swiss-Italian border and only operate a short stretch of the railway line, stopping at all intermediate stations, such as the local train service from Locarno to Intragna.
Other trains do make the entire journey between Locarno and Domodossola, stopping only at the most important stations en route.
Most cross-border services between Locarno and Domodossola are operated with Swiss rolling stock known as the Centovalli Express (FART ABe 4/8 series 45-48).
Some Locarno-Domodossola services are operated by special ‘Vigezzo Vision’ panorama trains (SSIF ABe 8/8 24), easily recognisable by their unique trapezium shape and large panoramic windows.
Seating in both first and second class is available on both the Centovalli Express and the Panorama Train.
Tickets
Train tickets for the Centovalli Railway can be purchased either at the station, online on the website of the Swiss national railway company SBB, or on the Vigezzina Centovalli site.
Note that when booking through SBB, their website will automatically assume you have a half-fare travelcard (‘halbtax’), as this 50% discount card is held by most people in Switzerland, so be sure to turn off this setting before buying your ticket on the SBB website if you don’t have such a card.
You can also use third-party booking website Omio to buy your Swiss and Italian train tickets.
Omio’s search engine is considered more user-friendly by many foreign travellers, and they offer train tickets at the same price, accepting all foreign debit and credit cards.
If you hold an Interrail or Eurail pass, you can travel by train on the Centovalli Railway between Locarno and Domodossola without needing to pay a supplement.
Seat reservations on the Centovalli Express and the Panorama Train are optional and cost €4.
If you want to buy a ticket that includes a seat reservation, or book a standalone seat reservation when holding a valid ticket such as an Eurail or Interrail Pass, you must use the Vigezzina Centovalli site or purchase it at the station.
Note that only a small fraction of the seats on these Centovalli trains can be reserved in advance, as the great majority of seats are available on a first-come, first-served basis upon boarding.
Needless to say, almost all the locals and most tourists simply hop on board these trains and take whichever available seat they prefer!
One final important note about tickets for the Centovalli Railway: A small surcharge (€1.50 or 1.50 CHF, payable in cash only to the conductor on board) applies when you take the Panorama Train.
No surcharge is required for taking a regular Centovalli Express train or a local train service.
Centovalli Railway Panorama Train
The train service I took on my trip from Locarno to Domodossola on the Centovalli Railway was one of the special panorama trains.
Second class seating on the train is arranged two abreast in bays of four seats, and although the first class seats are similar in comfort, they offer more personal space and shoulder room due to the 2+1 seat configuration.
As I was travelling with a first class Interrail Pass, I walked to the front of the train to take a seat in the first class section.
One amazing feature of first class on the Panorama trains across the Centovalli Railway is a single seat next to the driver’s cabin, providing stunning views of the line and the scenery ahead.
This seat doesn’t seem to be reservable in advance, so you’ll need to be quick upon boarding to get it.
Even if you don’t manage to grab this seat, you can still walk to the front window of the train and stand there for a while to admire the view ahead across the railway line, as long as you don’t block the view or intrude too much on the privacy of the passenger lucky enough to have the seat.
As I knew about the existence of this front-facing seat in advance, I made sure to board quickly and successfully managed to grab it.
Best side of the train to sit on the Centovalli Railway
If you can’t get the seat next to the driver’s cab on the Panorama Train, it doesn’t matter much whether you sit on the left or right side of the train when travelling on the Centovalli Railway.
When travelling from Locarno to Domodossola, the best views on the Swiss section of the Centovalli Railway will be on the left-hand side of the train in the direction of travel, as this is where the mountain valley lies and where you can enjoy the most scenic views.
However, once the train reaches Italian soil, the railway line runs mostly on the other side of the mountain valley, and the best views will shift to the right-hand side in the direction of travel.
It therefore doesn’t really matter which side you sit on, as you will always have a great view for half the journey.
That being said, as I believe the scenery on the Swiss part of the Centovalli Railway line is more stunning, I would personally choose a seat on the left-hand side of the train in the direction of travel when travelling from Locarno to Domodossola (or on the right-hand side when taking the train from Italy to Switzerland).
Locarno to Domodossola by Train Train PE40 – Departure: 10.48am – Arrival: 12.36pm Duration: 1h48m – Distance: 50 kilometres
Departure from Locarno
After departure from the underground Locarno FART station, the train travels through a tunnel underneath Locarno before surfacing again outside the city.
Right from the very start of the journey on the Centovalli Railway line, the views are breathtaking.
Just outside Locarno, the Centovalli Railway Line runs parallel to the main road and the River Maggia, its clear blue waters and lush riverbed looking absolutely stunning from the train.
The further the train gets from Locarno, the better the views become.
Shortly after the confluence of the Melezza and Maggia rivers, which is clearly visible from the left-hand side of the train, the station of Pontebrolla comes into sight.
At Pontebrolla, a train heading in the opposite direction towards Locarno was waiting for our train to pass.
The Centovalli Railway Line is single track, which means that trains have to use dual-track stations, like the one at Pontebrolla to pass each other.
If you want to make a stopover along the Centovalli Railway, Pontebrolla could be a good option, as the rocky river gorge nearby is a breathtaking natural sight.
Pontebrolla to Intragna
Shortly out of Pontebrolla station, the Centovalli Railway crosses the Maggia River and turns westward, following the course of the River Melezza.
From the train, you can admire the beautiful churches of the Centovalli, including the elegant bell and clock tower of the San Fedele Church in the village of Verscio and the Chiesa di San Gottardo in Intragna, which at 65 metres (213 feet) is the tallest in the entire Canton of Ticino.
The approach to Intragna by train is particularly scenic, as just before entering the village, the Centovalli Railway crosses a bridge high above the small Isorno River.
Intragna to Verdasio
Shortly after departing Intragna, the valley gradually narrows, while the train winds its way along the railway’s many curves and bridges.
As the railway line is constructed high up on the mountainside rather than on the valley floor, you continue to enjoy sweeping views over the lush forests and mountains of the Centovalli.
On the route between Intragna and Verdasio, the train passed through an avalanche gallery, designed to protect the railway from heavy snowfall and avalanches during winter, and passed right by the beautiful yet somewhat dilapidated Church of San Giovanni Nepomuceno.
Just a stone’s throw from the train station at Verdasio, you’ll find a cable car that takes you to the top of Monte Comino, so this could be another worthwhile stopover when travelling along the Centovalli Railway.
Crossing the Swiss-Italian border
Shortly before the train reaches the Italian border, the valley is at its narrowest, and the views along the Centovalli Railway Line are at their best.
The landscape appears wilder and more remote, with only a few houses and scarce signs of civilisation amid the deep forests and towering mountain peaks.
I was really enjoying the ride so far, so I decided to open a cold can of beer that I had bought in Locarno to make the train journey even more enjoyable.
If you haven’t brought any drinks or snacks with you, you can also buy them from the trolley service available on the Centovalli Panorama Train.
While I was drinking my beer, a lake with gorgeous green-blue waters appeared on my left-hand side.
This lake is actually a man-made reservoir, Lago di Palagnedra, created in 1952 by constructing a 72-metre-high (236 ft) dam on the Melezza River.
Along the shores of this artificial lake, you will also find some of the most picturesque bridges of the Centovalli Railway, including the Ponte Borgnone, with its towering steel arch soaring high above the ground.
Another bridge at Ribellasca, spanning the small Ri degli Orti river, marks the Swiss-Italian border.
Make sure to look to the right-hand side of the train (when travelling from Locarno to Domodossola) to spot the Italian flag at Ribellasca’s railway station and the border signs along the adjacent road.
Switzerland, you have been a blast!
Into Italy
Now that the train has left Switzerland and entered Italy, we have entered the Vigezzo Valley, known in Italian as the Val or Valle Vigezzo.
Although the scenery is initially similar to the Centovalli in Switzerland, with the railway line winding its way through a craggy river gorge, it doesn’t take long for the valley to widen out.
In the village of Meis, the train entered a passing loop where another Panorama Train, heading in the reverse direction from Domodossola to Locarno, was already waiting for us to pass by.
As the railway line runs through the fields and grassy meadows of the Vigezzo Valley on long, straight stretches, the train picks up more speed compared to the twisty nature of the track in the Centovalli.
A while latter, the train crossed the bridge over the Melezzo Orientale River and entered the station in the village of Malesco.
Malesco to Druogno
After the stop in Malesco, the Centovalli Railway runs across the high plain that forms the central section of the Val Vigezzo, or Vigezzo Valley.
As the central part of the Vigezzo Valley is relatively wide and flat, it is characterised by numerous villages and agricultural fields.
The station of Santa Maria Maggiore marks the highest point of the Centovalli Railway, located at an altitude of 831 metres (2,726 feet) above sea level.
Shortly after the stop at Santa Maria Maggiore, the train reaches the village of Druogno, marking the end of the central section across the high plain.
Druogno to Trontano
After the station of Druogno, the scenery along the Centovalli Railway changes dramatically once again, as the railway line enters a deep forest on the mountainside.
As the train slowly makes its way downhill across several bridges, tunnels, and curves, you can enjoy sweeping views of the valley and the surrounding mountains on your right-hand side.
The final descent from Trontano to Domodossola
The stop at the station in Trontano marks the beginning of the final descent down the mountain towards Domodossola.
This section of the Centovalli Railway (or Vigezzina Railway, as it is known here in Italy) is particularly winding, featuring many wide turns and horseshoe curves along the mountainside.
These help the train lose elevation gradually, avoiding a too-steep incline.
From the train, you can enjoy fantastic views over the Ossola Valley and the city of Domodossola, which can already be seen in the far distance at the valley’s base.
On your right-hand side in the direction of travel, you can spot the Torre di Creggio, a well-known local landmark, right next to the railway line.
The Torre di Creggio is a 13th or 14th-century tower, said to be the rumoured birthplace or refuge of Fra Dolcino, an Italian reformist religious leader who was eventually burned at the stake as a heretic and is also famously mentioned in Dante’s Divine Comedy.
Once the Centovalli Panorama Train has reached the valley floor after a beautiful descent, it crosses a bridge over the River Toce and enters the city limits of Domodossola.
After passing some sidings where old freight and passenger wagons of the Centovalli Railway were slowly decaying, the train entered a tunnel to reach the underground station of Domodossola.
Domodossola station and onward connections
Just like in Locarno, the narrow-gauge trains of the Centovalli (Vigezzina) Railway use an underground platform at the station of Domodossola, while the standard-gauge trains use the above-ground platforms.
From what I saw from the square in front of the station building and in pictures online, Domodossola seemed like a pleasant city to spend an hour or two in.
You’ll find plenty of cafés and restaurants near the station, so if you’re in need of a drink or some food after your train ride, it won’t be too hard to find an appealing place to sit down.
Unfortunately, I had no time to head into Domodossola proper, as I had an onward train to catch.
Although Domodossola marks the end of the narrow-gauge Centovalli Railway Line, you can connect here to standard-gauge trains heading north across the Simplon Pass back into Switzerland or south towards Milan, which was the direction I was heading.
Conclusion
The narrow-gauge Centovalli Railway Line, which links Locarno in the Swiss Canton of Ticino with Domodossola in Italy, is one of Europe’s most scenic train rides.
This railway line, also known as the Vigezzina, traverses the Centovalli and Vigezzo Valleys in the mountainous area along the Swiss-Italian border.
It’s a highly picturesque railway line, and from the train, you can enjoy views of charming villages, clear blue mountain rivers, craggy canyons, and high peaks.
If you travel along the Centovalli Railway, you can choose between slower local trains that only cover a short section of the line and stop at all intermediate stations, or the faster Centovalli Express or Panorama Train, which complete the entire stretch between Locarno and Domodossola and only stop at the most important stations.
One great aspect of the Panorama Train on the Centovalli Railway is that it has a single first-class seat located right next to the driver’s cab, offering unparalleled views of the railway tracks ahead.
If you’re an avid train traveller who loves scenic railway lines, the Centovalli Railway is a must when visiting Switzerland or Northern Italy.
Koen works as a freelance journalist covering south-eastern Europe and is the founding father and editor-in-chief of Paliparan. As a contributor to some major Fleet Street newspapers and some lesser known publications in the Balkans, he travels thousands of miles each year for work as well as on his personal holidays. Whether it is horse riding in Kyrgyzstan’s Tian Shan mountains, exploring the backstreets of Bogotá, or sipping a glass of moschofilero in a Greek beachside taverna, Koen loves to immerse himself into the local culture, explore new places and eat and drink himself around the world. You can follow Koen on his travels on Twitter, Facebook, or Instagram.
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