A Stopover Walk Through the Old Town of Zurich
In this destination report, we take a walk through the old town of Zurich and visit some of the city’s sights during a stopover.
Zurich stopover
The gorgeous arrival views from my LOT Polish Airlines flight into Zurich were quite promising for my stopover in the city.
My flight had landed at 10am and my onward train connection would not depart until 6.40pm, which left me with plenty of time to explore Zurich during this stopover.
As it was a sunny spring day, I decided that I wanted to spend as much time outdoors as possible during my stopover to soak up the sunshine and views.
Fortunately, Zurich is quite compact and has a walkable city centre, making this easily doable.
From the airport, I took one of the frequent suburban trains to Zurich Hauptbahnhof (main station) where I started my walk through town.
Into the city centre
From Zurich’s main railway station it’s a short walk into the old town (called ‘altstadt’ in German).
The shortest route is by exiting the station through its southern entrance and walking down the Bahnhofstrasse (train station street).
The Bahnhofstrasse is one of Zurich’s main shopping streets and quite inviting for a stroll since its almost fully pedestrianised apart from the trams running up and down the street.
About two thirds down the Bahnhofstrasse you find another important Zurich square, the Paradeplatz.
This square is the historic financial heart of Zurich and some major Swiss banks such as UBS and Credit Suisse still have their headquarters here.
On the corner of Bahnhofstrasse and Paradeplatz you can find Confiserie Sprüngli, a luxury confectionery manufacturer which is a Zurich institution.
This area being the heart of banking operations you can find plenty of more luxury shops and restaurants around here.
Although some of these restaurants looked inviting I decided to walk on as the prices are so high that you need to sell a kidney to be able to afford to dine here.
St. Peter’s Church
If you would walk further down the Bahnhofstrasse, you will eventually end up at the Bürkliplatz square on the shores of Lake Zurich.
Instead of walking directly to the lakeshore, I however walked into one of the side streets which led up a hill to the Church of Saint Peter, one of the four main churches of Zurich
The Church of St. Peter, a Protestant church, is famous for having the largest church clock of Europe.
Along the Limmat
The old town of Zurich is situated on both banks of the River Limmat.
The River Limmat has its source at Lake Zurich and streams right through the centre of Switzerland’s largest city, eventually flowing into the River Aare (itself a tributary of the Rhine) after 35 kilometres.
There is a promenade along both sides of the River Limmat and with its fine views over Zurich’s old town it’s a great place for a stroll.
The Münster Bridge is perhaps the most famous of all the River Limmat bridges as it connects the Fraumünster Church on the western bank with the Grossmünster Church on the eastern bank.
Squares and markets
Directly behind the riverside Fraumünster Church you can find Münsterhof, the largest of the old town squares in Zurich.
This square is surrounded by several magnificent Medieval guild houses.
Just to the south of the Münsterhof is the lakeside Bürkliplatz square, which is home to a farmers’ market on most weekdays (Tuesday to Friday).
Each Saturday a flea market is held on Bürkliplatz and on this sunny weekend day the market was full of Zurich locals taking a stroll between the stalls.
Lake Zurich
One of the main attractions of Zurich is the city’s picturesque setting at the far northern tip of Lake Zurich.
Across the street from Bürkliplatz you can find a large observation deck from where you have some panoramic views over the lake.
This is also the place from where Lake Zurich passenger shuttle boats and cruises depart.
On this spring day the weather and visibility was so good that you could easily see the mountain peaks of the Alps across Lake Zurich.
A walk along the lakeshore
On a sunny day, it is a pleasure to walk along the western shores of Lake Zurich.
There is a footpath along this side of the lake and it leads you through some lovely parks far away from the traffic and street noises of Zurich.
When you start your walk at Bürkliplatz, you will first come across a large park and botanical garden called the Zurich Arboretum.
Further down the lake you will find several yacht clubs and swimming beaches.
There are pleasant picnic and swimming spots all along the western shore of Lake Zurich and on this weekend day there were plenty of people locals around in the parks enjoying the sun.
Quaibrücke
If you are after some fine views of both the city and Lake Zurich, you should definitely take a stroll over the Quaibrücke, which translated from German simply means Quay Bridge.
As the main lakeside road as well as plenty of trams go over the Quaibrücke this bridge can be full of traffic but the views on both sides are worth it.
Especially the view towards the old town is great as it takes in all of Zurich’s big churches.
Eastern shore
Although it’s different in character, the eastern shore of Lake Zurich is just as pleasant as the western shore.
Where you find parks and grassland at the western shore, you can find a wide lakeside promenade here.
It’s a perfect place to sit down for a while on the quays and to enjoy the views, which was exactly what I did.
With a quartet playing some traditional Swiss music, it certainly made for a wonderful atmosphere.
There is a Migros supermarket just behind Zurich’s neo-baroque Opera House which stocks cold beer and wine in the fridge.
Plenty of locals seemed to have the same idea as me, buying a drink and a snack in the supermarket and enjoying it at the lakeshore.
Migros supermarkets are anyway a lifesaver as they have a good selection of relatively cheap ready made meals and drinks, ideal for those who are on a budget in expensive Switzerland!
Grossmünster
After relaxing a bit in the sun with a beer it was time to slowly head back in the direction of the train station, this time walking on the eastern (right) bank of the River Limmat.
The main sight here is arguably the Grossmünster (Great Minster) Church, which is clearly recognisable by its twin towers making it one of the most iconic landmarks in the Zurich skyline.
The Romanesque Grossmünster Church was founded by Charlemagne according to legend and used to be a Catholic monastery church.
Pastor Huldrych Zwingli initiated the Swiss Reformation from the Grossmünster in the early 16th Century and the church has been Protestant since.
Old town streets
Personally, I much prefer the old town streets on the eastern side of the River Limmat over those at the other side.
Where the streets to the west of the river are mostly commercial and dominated by shops, those on the eastern bank are full of attractive cafés and restaurants.
The eastern part of Zurich’s old town is a nice area to explore and the further away from the river you get, the more picturesque the cobbled streets become.
If you are looking for a nice terrace to have a drink or a meal, this certainly is the area to look for it.
Lindenhof
There was one main sight remaining which I wanted to see in the old town of Zurich – and fortunately it was right on my way back to the train station.
From the Lindenhof, located on the west bank of the River Limmat, you have perhaps the best views over the old town of Zurich.
The Lindenhof used to be the site of a Roman castle as well as a Carolingian imperial palace (‘Kaiserpfalz’), not a surprise given the strategic hilltop position.
Throughout history, the leafy tree-lined squared was commonly used as an assembly place for the local population, including in 1798 when the inhabitants of Zurich swore an oath of loyalty here to the newly created Helvetic Republic.
Back to the station
Having walked around almost the entire city centre of Zurich, it was time to head back to the station as my feet pretty much had enough of it despite the fabulous views and glorious weather on this day.
To turn back, I simply walked along the picturesque right bank of the River Limmat until the station building appeared on the other side.
Still having some time left until the departure of my onward train to Austria, I searched for a quiet corner in the station to sit down and do some work on my laptop.
Conclusion
I had a fabulous day walking through the old town of Zurich on my city stopover.
Although the gorgeous spring weather certainly played a big role, Zurich’s old town is generally a very pleasant and highly picturesque place to visit.
The picture-perfect old town of Zurich has a couple of interesting sights to see, among which the four main churches and the Lindenhof with its panoramic views are perhaps the most important ones.
However, most of the attraction of Zurich lies in the fact that the city is so walkable and just has a calm and relaxed vibe to it.
Even though Zurich is an important financial and business centre, you will easily forget about this when you walk along the quaint shores of Lake Zurich.
If you happen to visit on a sunny day, nothing beats sitting at the lakeshore with a cold beer and admiring the lovely views – with the Alps as a stunning backdrop.
Given that the city centre is just a short train ride away from the airport – and that the train station is located right at the edge of the old town – you’d be mad not to go for a walk through Zurich if you have a few hours to kill during your stopover or layover.
Trip report index
This article is part of the ‘Across Europe by Train: Interrail in the Age of Corona‘ trip report, which consists of the following chapters:
1. Review: LOT Polish Airlines Economy Class Bucharest to Warsaw (Embraer ERJ-175)
2. Walking Through an Empty Warsaw in Corona Lockdown
3. Review: Four Points by Sheraton Warsaw Mokotow
4. Review: LOT Polish Airlines Economy Class Warsaw to Zurich (Boeing 737 MAX)
5. A Stopover Walk Through the Old Town of Zurich (current chapter)
6. Review: Railjet Train Zurich to Feldkirch
7. An Evening in Friendly Little Feldkirch
8. Review: Nightjet Train Feldkirch to Graz
9. A Short Walk Along the Sights of Graz
10. Review: Emona EuroCity Train Vienna – Ljubljana – Trieste
11. Zidani Most: Europe’s Most Picturesque Train Station
12. Review: Ljubljana to Zagreb by EuroCity Train EC 1211 ‘Sava’
13. Flying With Trade Air on a Let L-410 Turbolet Across Croatia
14. Review: Palace Derossi, Trogir, Croatia
15. A Visit to the Tranquil Island City of Trogir, Croatia
16. Cycling on Ciovo: A Trogir Day Trip by Bike
17. Split: Croatia’s Bustling Seaside City Full of History
18. Review: Croatian Railways ICN Train Split to Zagreb
19. Review: Esplanade Hotel, Zagreb, Croatia
20. Zagreb: A Guide to Croatia’s Underrated Capital City
21. Review: EuroCity Train “Croatia” Zagreb to Vienna
22. Review: Dacia Night Train Vienna to Bucharest
It’s years since I’ve been to Zurich but you seem to have done most things in a day Koen except one! Did you not have a hot chocolate at Sprüngli in Paradeplatz? I always think it’s a must when there and for Zurich, their cafe is, or was, surprisingly affordable.