A Visit to the Delightful Old Town of Rhodes

November 21, 2022April 24, 2024 Koen 0 Comments

In this destination guide we will visit the medieval old town of Rhodes (Rodos) in Greece.

A visit to Rhodes

The island of Rhodes is one of the most popular tourist destinations in all of Greece.

Although many people flock to one of the many tourist resorts on the island’s coastline to enjoy the sea and sun, an equal amount of holidaymakers visit Rhodes for its culture and history.

When it comes to culture and history, Rhodes Town is arguably the island’s biggest tourist draw, followed by the cute town of Lindos with its acropolis.

I arrived on the island by ferry from Halki and after I had checked into Rhodes hotel I was all set to explore around.

rhodes island ferry — *The ferry from Halki is approaching the island of Rhodes. ©Paliparan*

rhodes town hotels — *From the western island port of Kamiros Skala, I took the bus into Rhodes Town. ©Paliparan*

Old town fortifications

As my hotel was located in the north of the city centre, the Amboise Gate was the nearest point through which I could enter the old town of Rhodes.

Named after Grand Master of the Knights Hospitaller Emery d’Amboise and located on the north-western side of the old town, it’s certainly the most impressive gate in my opinion.

The Amboise Gate actually exists out of three sets of gates and the defensive fortifications with chemins de ronde, towers and bastions are quite formidable.

In total there are 11 places (9 gates and 2 portals) giving access to the medieval old town and it’s certainly well-worth it to see a couple of them.

It’s also possible to walk inside the moat surrounding the old town walls.

amboise gate rhodes fortifications — *The moat has been turned into a park and there is a path running alongside the entire length of the fortifications. ©Paliparan*

rhodes town fortifications — *Walking between the defensive walls and fortifications. ©Paliparan*

amboise gate — *Entering the old town through the d’Amboise Gate. ©Paliparan*

medieval fortifications — *Old town fortifications. ©Paliparan*

Grandmaster’s Palace

Rhodes Town is famous for its medieval old town, which has been listed as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO.

In medieval times, Rhodes was the home base of the Knights Hospitaller, a Catholic military order that ended up on the Greek island after the fall of the Crusader states.

The Knights Hospitaller (full name: Order of Knights of the Hospital of Saint John of Jerusalem) made a formidable bastion out of Rhodes Town.

Their headquarters was the Palace of the Grand Master of the Knights of Rhodes, a castle at the far northern edge of the old town.

The castle – one of the few buildings in Greece built in Gothic style – now houses a museum.

grand master palace rhodes — *A look at the Grand Master’s Palace. ©Paliparan*

Street of the Knights

One of the most famous streets of Rhodes Town runs from the Grand Master’s Palace down to the harbour.

This is the Street of the Knights of Rhodes, or simply called Ippoton in Greek.

The Street of the Knights of Rhodes is one of the best preserved medieval streets in Greece and perhaps all of Europe.

On this cobblestone street you can find several historic inns, with each one representing one of the countries from which the Knights Hospitaller originally came from.

At the end of the Street of the Knights you can find another interesting museum, namely the Archaeological Museum of Rhodes.

medieval street — *The streets of Rhodes seemed almost completely deserted. ©Paliparan*

rhodes old town street of knights — *The Street of the Knights in the old town of Rhodes. ©Paliparan*

archaeological museum — *Archaeological Museum of Rhodes. ©Paliparan*

Emptiness

When I walked through the Street of the Knights it hit me just how empty the streets of Rhodes Town were during my visit.

There are normally masses of people strolling up and down this street, especially so when you visit at the height of summer.

However, just like my visit to Naxos Town earlier this trip, there was hardly a soul in sight in this medieval town either.

Personally I didn’t mind at all, as you don’t always get the opportunity to explore the delights of such a popular tourist destination without having to battle the crowds.

Through some side streets and alleys I made my way to the Suleiman Mosque, which was built after the Ottomans took control of Rhodes in 1523.

Besides the Crusaders and the Ottomans, also the Italians left their legacy behind during their occupation of Rhodes, while in earlier history the ancient Greeks, Romans and Byzantines all left their mark.

old town street rhodes — *The empty old town streets of Rhodes. ©Paliparan*

rhodes cat greece — *Ginger cat taking a nap in one of the alleys. ©Paliparan*

medieval town — *The maze-like streets of the old town. ©Paliparan*

old town house — *Old town houses. ©Paliparan*

suleiman mosque rhodes — *Suleiman Mosque. ©Paliparan*

suleiman mosque — *A look over the Suleiman Mosque. ©Paliparan*

Lunch

Even in the shopping streets and the more touristy old town restaurants there was hardly a soul to see.

I had therefore little problems finding a good spot for lunch.

The moussaka and cold beer at the restaurant I chose – Mama Sofia – did hit the spot.

souvenir shops rhodes — *Souvenir shops in Rhodes Town. ©Paliparan*

old town rhodes — *Even the old town shopping streets were almost completely deserted. ©Paliparan*

restaurants old town rhodes — *Old town restaurants. ©Paliparan*

moussaka beer — *Enjoying some moussaka and a beer. ©Paliparan*

cat greece — *Feline company during lunch. ©Paliparan*

Backstreets of Rhodes Town

After the tasty lunch, it was time to explore Rhodes Town a bit further.

In my opinion, the best about Rhodes Town are its backstreets.

When you walk away from the main thoroughfares and enter the backstreets, it almost seems like you enter a completely different world.

Wandering to the backstreets and alleys of Rhodes makes for the perfect opportunity to admire the medieval architecture and to soak up the charm of the city.

I especially loved the backstreets in the south-western corner of the old town – roughly the area between Saint George’s Bastion and Saint Athanasios Gate.

church saint george rhodes — *Walking towards the Church of Saint George. ©Paliparan*

agios georgios rodos — *The Church of Saint George (Agios Georgios) in Rhodes Town. ©Paliparan*

backstreets rhodes town — *The backstreets of Rhodes Town. ©Paliparan*

medieval town streets — *It’s good fun to wander around aimlessly through the old town streets. ©Paliparan*

rhodes town alley — *Backstreet alleys of Rhodes. ©Paliparan*

hamza bey mosque — *Hamza Bey Mosque. ©Paliparan*

*You get a whole different perspective of the city if you explore the backstreets. ©Paliparan*

backstreet shops rhodes town — *Backstreet shops. ©Paliparan*

bougainvillea rhodes town — *It being Greece, you also encounter the occasional bougainvillea overhanging the streets in Rhodes Town. ©Paliparan*

cobblestone street — *I just loved wandering around the cobblestoned streets of the old town. ©Paliparan*

old town houses rhodes town — *Gorgeous contrast between the white and yellow painted houses. ©Paliparan*

old town street — *Old town street. ©Paliparan*

colourful door rhodes old town — *Colourful door in the old town of Rhodes. ©Paliparan*

Coffee time

Once I reached the Saint Athanasios Gate in the south-western corner of the old town, it was time for another break.

Here you can find the Old Town Corner Bakery, which is a nice spot for a coffee and a pastry.

saint athanasios gate rhodes — *Approaching the Saint Athanasios Gate. ©Paliparan*

saint athanasios gate — *Saint Athanasios Gate. ©Paliparan*

saint athanasios gate rhodes old town — *Walking through the Saint Athanasios Gate. ©Paliparan*

freddo espresso greece — *Enjoying a freddo espresso in front of the Saint Athanasios Gate. ©Paliparan*

sleeping cat greece — *Sleeping cat in front of a door. ©Paliparan*

Old mosque

Once I had finished the iced coffee it was time to move on as there were still plenty of places left that I wanted to visit in the old town of Rhodes.

Another particularly nice area of the old town is leafy Dorieos Square.

The square is dominated by a large ficus tree, the decaying Recep Pasha Mosque and an old covered fountain.

It’s a wonderful place to sit down with a beer and to absorb the surroundings as almost all the outdoor terraces are shaded by the trees.

rhodes old town — *Rhodes old town. ©Paliparan*

greeks rhodes — *Locals talking on the streets. ©Paliparan*

street arches — *Street with old stone arches. ©Paliparan*

scooter greece — *As cars cannot get into the old town, the locals often use scooters to travel. ©Paliparan*

greek shop — *Shop selling slippers, sandals and leatherware. ©Paliparan*

old town shops — *Old town shops. ©Paliparan*

dorieos square rhodes — *Dorieos Square is dominated by a large ficus tree. ©Paliparan*

dorieos square rhodes town — *Leafy Dorieos Square is a great place to sit down for a drink or some food. ©Paliparan*

greece rhodes beer — *The sign “local draught beer 2.50 euro” certainly attracted my interest! ©Paliparan*

recep pasha mosque rhodes town — *Recep Pasha Mosque. ©Paliparan*

fountain rhodes town — *The old mosque fountain on the square. ©Paliparan*

old fountain — *Old fountain. ©Paliparan*

High point

From Dorieos Square, I headed deeper into the old town towards the south-east, passing by the Ibrahim Pasha Mosque.

Here, the streets go gradually uphill and from the southernmost fringes of the old town you therefore have some pretty views over the entire historic centre.

It is also possible here to climb and walk on the defensive walls for some more gorgeous views over the old town of Rhodes and its fortifications.

mosque minaret — *Restaurants with a mosque’s minaret as backdrop. ©Paliparan*

*Old warehouses and workshops. ©Paliparan*

old town rhodes café — *Old town café. ©Paliparan*

koen rhodes — *Yours truly in the old town of Rhodes. ©Paliparan*

street corner — *Street corner. ©Paliparan*

white bougainvillea rhodes town — *White bougainvillea. ©Paliparan*

rhodes old town view — *View over the old town of Rhodes from the southern walls. ©Paliparan*

defensive walls rhodes town — *The defensive walls and fortifications of Rhodes Town. ©Paliparan*

Jewish Quarter

Next up was a walk through the old Jewish Quarter of Rhodes Town, which is centred around lively Platia Evreon Martiron (Jewish Martyrs Square).

Besides the 16th century Kahal Shalom Synagogue – the only one on the island of Rhodes and the oldest in Greece – there are a couple of other interesting sights to visit in this part of town.

If you exit the old town through the Virgin Mary Gate and cross the street, you find yourself standing on Sachtouri Beach.

From this beach you have a good view over the Port of Rhodes and all the large passenger ferries departing to points throughout the Dodecanese, North Aegean Islands, Cyclades, Crete and Piraeus.

rhodes old houses balconies — *Old houses with traditional balconies. ©Paliparan*

greece greek flags old town street rhodes — *Greek flags proudly displayed in an old town street. ©Paliparan*

rhodes town streetscape — *Rhodes Town streetscape. ©Paliparan*

winding street medieval town — *Winding streets of the old town. ©Paliparan*

ginger cat greece — *Ginger cat roaming around the medieval town. ©Paliparan*

platia evreon martiron rodos — *Platia Evreon Martiron. ©Paliparan*

sea horse fountain evreon martiron square rhodes old town — *Sea horse fountain on Evreon Martiron square. ©Paliparan*

rhodes shopping street — *Rhodes shopping street. ©Paliparan*

virgin mary gate rhodes old town — *Virgin Mary Gate. ©Paliparan*

sachtouri beach rhodes — *Sachtouri Beach. ©Paliparan*

blue star ferries rhodes — *A Blue Star Ferries ship in the Port of Rhodes. ©Paliparan*

Church of the Virgin Mary

Back in the Jewish Quarter, you also shouldn’t miss the ruins of the Church of the Virgin of the Burgh.

This 14th century Gothic church was once the most important one in Rhodes Town, although it was sadly destroyed during the Second World War and never rebuilt.

Today, only some side chapels and the three apses of the sanctuary are left standing, while the rest of the surface on which the church once stood has been turned into a public square.

church of virgin mary of the burgh — *The ruins of the Church of the Virgin Mary of the Burgh. ©Paliparan*

church of virgin mary of the burgh rhodes town — *Church of the Virgin Mary of the Burgh. ©Paliparan*

Market streets

The streets and squares to the west of the Jewish Quarter such as Sokatrous Street and Hippocrates Square are the busiest in Rhodes Town.

During the daytime the streets will be crowded with sightseeing and shopping tourists, while in the evening hours people flock to this part of the old town for people watching and grabbing a drink at one of the many cafés you can find here.

It’s certainly good fun to stroll through the street markets in this part of town.

There are also some noteworthy sights in this part of town such as the Castellania, a building which used to be a courthouse in medieval times but nowadays houses the city library.

castellania rhodes old town — *The Castellania. ©Paliparan*

market streets old town rhodes — *Market streets of the old town of Rhodes. ©Paliparan*

rhodes town shops — *Souvenir shops in Rhodes Town. ©Paliparan*

shopping street — *Shopping street. ©Paliparan*

old town rhodes shops — *Shops in the old town of Rhodes. ©Paliparan*

church of our lady of the castle — *Square in front of the Church of Our Lady of the Castle. ©Paliparan*

sokratous street rhodes town mosque of suleiman — *Sokratous street with the Mosque of Suleiman in the far distance. ©Paliparan*

sokratous street rhodes old town — *Shops on Sokratous street. ©Paliparan*

Greek cats

One of the things I always like about Greece are the community cats strolling the streets, something which is also the case in Rhodes Town.

As I was away on a longer trip and missing my own cats at home, I made sure I stopped a few times to pet some of the sweeties.

cats old town rhodes greece — *Cats lazing in the old town of Rhodes. ©Paliparan*

cat bench — *Chilling with one of the cats on a bench. ©Paliparan*

cat medieval old town rhodes — *Cat guarding a medieval entrance gate. ©Paliparan*

clowder of cats — *Clowder of cats. ©Paliparan*

*Cute black-and-white cats lazing on a medieval wall. ©Paliparan*

Mandraki harbour

As my walk through the old town of Rhodes came to an end, there was one major sight left to visit.

I’m talking about Mandraki Harbour, which has been the port of Rhodes since ancient times.

Although the larger ships and ferries now depart from the new port directly towards the east of Mandraki Harbour, yachts and smaller excursion boats still anchor at Mandraki.

Mandraki Harbour is home to some of the most famous landmarks of Rhodes as well, such as the windmills, Saint Nicholas Fortress, the Governor’s Palace and the Church of the Annunciation of the Theotokos.

However, Mandraki Harbour is most famous as the place where the Colossus of Rhodes once stood.

The Colossus of Rhodes – a statue depicting the sun god Helios – was one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World.

Although it is commonly believed that the 33-metre-high statue straddled the harbour’s entrance, this is actually a myth that took root in medieval times.

The statue was completed in the year 282 BC but collapsed in an earthquake in 226 BC.

A deer statue now stands on the place where the mighty Colossus of Rhodes once stood.

port of rhodes bank of greece — *Bank of Greece in the Port of Rhodes. ©Paliparan*

mandraki harbour — *Walking on the quays of Mandraki Harbour. ©Paliparan*

mandraki harbour rhodes windmills — *The windmills of Mandraki Harbour. ©Paliparan*

saint nicholas fortress rhodes — *Saint Nicholas Fortress. ©Paliparan*

*Church of the Annunciation of the Theotokos. ©Paliparan*

colossus of rhodes — *Monument of a deer at the place where once the Colossus of Rhodes stood. ©Paliparan*

fishermen greece mandraki harbour — *Fishermen in Mandraki Harbour. ©Paliparan*

governor's palace — *Governor’s Palace with World War II monument. ©Paliparan*

rhodes governor's palace — *Rhodes Governor’s Palace. ©Paliparan*

Sunset

As the sun was almost setting, I decided to walk towards the west coast hoping to catch some beautiful sunset views.

Rhodes Town is located on the far northern tip of the island, so walking from the east side of town (where you will find the medieval old town) to the west side is just a matter of minutes.

I walked to Akti Miaouli Beach, which together with the more sheltered Elli Beach is the most popular beach in Rhodes Town proper.

When I arrived on the pebble beach the sunset colours were already stunning.

I sat down for a good 30 minutes to admire the sunset and twilight colours over the Aegean Sea before heading back into Rhodes Town.

It then suddenly hit me that during the last weeks in Greece I haven’t eaten a single souvlaki yet – so I immediately decided that I should get one for dinner.

In the end, I bought two souvlaki from one of the neighbourhood takeaway restaurants and walked back to the beach to eat them.

akti miaouli beach rhodes town — *Akti Miaouli Beach. ©Paliparan*

akti miaouli beach — *Pebbly Akti Miaouli Beach. ©Paliparan*

sunset rhodes town akti miaouli beach — *Sunset as seen from Akti Miaouli Beach. ©Paliparan*

rhodes town sunset — *Rhodes Town sunset. ©Paliparan*

aegean sea sunset — *Sun setting in the Aegean Sea. ©Paliparan*

akti miaouli beach twilight rhodes town — *Twilight colours over Akti Miaouli Beach. ©Paliparan*

coastal road rhodes — *Beautiful twilight colours over the coastal road. ©Paliparan*

Rhodes Town at night

When you are staying in Rhodes, it’s also a must to visit the old town in the evening or at night.

Both the colours and the atmosphere are completely different at night.

Many of the old town landmarks are beautifully illuminated at night, which makes another walk through the medieval centre already worthwhile.

However, the biggest reason to visit the old town of Rhodes at night is the vibe, as in the late evening hours dozens of people stroll through the city streets.

It’s a great opportunity for people watching, a late dinner or some drinks at one of the many old town bars.

d'amboise gate rhodes — *D’Amboise Gate at night. ©Paliparan*

old town gate — *Entering the old town for a late evening walk. ©Paliparan*

roloi clock tower rhodes town — *The medieval Roloi Clock Tower at night. ©Paliparan*

rhodes shopping street night — *The shopping streets were bustling with activity as well in the evening. ©Paliparan*

rhodes backstreet — *Rhodes backstreet in the dark. ©Paliparan*

old town rhodes night walk — *Night walk through the old town of Rhodes. ©Paliparan*

greek cat — *Another friendly Greek cat. ©Paliparan*

rhodes old town night — *Old town streets at night. ©Paliparan*

rhodes old town bars — *Bars in the old town of Rhodes. ©Paliparan*

hippocrates square rhodes town — *Lively Hippocrates Square. ©Paliparan*

hippocrates square fountain — *Hippocrates Square fountain. ©Paliparan*

queue ice cream shop — *Small queue in front of an ice cream shop. ©Paliparan*

night walk rhodes town — *Night walk through Rhodes Town. ©Paliparan*

greece cat — *Another cute old town cat. ©Paliparan*

Conclusion

Rhodes Town is one of the most beautiful and interesting places in all of Greece to visit thanks to its extremely well-preserved medieval core.

The old town centre of Rhodes is a delightful place to wander around aimlessly.

As you walk further away from the main thoroughfares, the atmosphere and surroundings really become something special.

The ancient Greeks, Romans, Byzantines, Crusaders, Ottomans and Italians all left their legacy behind in Rhodes Town and the mixture between these styles is absolutely intriguing.

There are tons of interesting sights to visit in the old town of Rhodes, although this lively city is as much about enjoying the good Greek life in one of the many cafés, bars and restaurants.

I was extremely lucky to visit Rhodes Town at a moment (summer of 2020) when there were almost no other tourists around in Greece, although even at peak holiday times the city makes for a rewarding destination.

Trip report index

This article is part of the ‘A Dodecanese Dream: Summer Island Hopping in Greece‘ trip report, which consists of the following chapters:

1. Back in the Skies – My First International Flight in the Age of Corona
2. Review: Kimon Hotel, Athens, Greece
3. Exploring Plaka: Through the Winding Streets of the Old Town of Athens
4. Climbing up the Acropolis: Visiting Athens’ Most Famous Sight
5. Review: Skyserv Melina Merkouri Lounge Athens Airport
6. Review: Sky Express Athens to Naxos (ATR 42)
7. Review: Studios Zafiri, Naxos Town, Greece
8. Naxos Town: The Gorgeous Historic Heart of the Cyclades
9. Review: Blue Star Ferries Naxos to Astypalaia
10. Review: Belvedere Studios, Astypalaia Town, Greece
11. Astypalea Town: The Unknown Crown Jewel of the Aegean Sea
12. Astypalea Island Guide: Exploring the Butterfly of the Aegean
13. On a Night Boat in Greece – Astypalea to Kastellorizo With Blue Star Ferries
14. Review: Traditional Apartments Alexandra, Kastellorizo, Greece
15. Kastellorizo: A Look Around Greece’s Easternmost Island
16. Hiking on Kastellorizo: Two Sunset Hikes Detailed
17. Review: Olympic Air Kastellorizo to Rhodes (Dash 8-100)
18. Guide: How to Travel From Rhodes to Halki by Ferry
19. Review: Dorothea Apartments, Halki, Greece
20. Halki Town: Eating, Swimming & Relaxing in Beautiful Emborios
21. A Hike to Horio: Exploring Halki’s Old Abandoned Capital
22. Guide: The Best Beaches on the Island of Halki
23. Review: Hermes Hotel, Rhodes Town, Greece
24. A Visit to the Delightful Old Town of Rhodes (current chapter)
25. Review: Aegean Airlines Domestic Flight Rhodes to Athens
26. End of a Dream Holiday in Greece: One Last Day in Athens